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Ph1 172, 172 cup, valver, williams all have the speedo drive on the gearbox

I prefer cotton gauze myself. Not so popular on clios though. Half a hp more restrictive obviously ;)

1.6 is harder than the 172/182. the airbox is at the back of the engine

head fallen off the valve where they're welded on? Seen that once before, pretty certain that car was driven bouncing off the limiter everywhere it went. Bits of valve had made it into every cylinder from the reverse flow of gases, utterly destroyed.

I've bought all new ones in the last month, they've changed a load of the MOT numbers, took bloody ages trawling through all the listings on the computer and cross referencing

have to be reflective, and in a specific font

totally serious. All the non genuine cam alignment bars bend, and you shouldn't tighten against those anyway. As soon as you torque the pulleys they move unless you have the pulley locking tool

I would go for a Piper system for a 182 turbo. Proper 2.5 inch throughout, and superbly made. K-tec will be able to supply them

anything but genuine renault locking tools is a waste of time money and metal. Only renault sell the pulley locking tools All in it's around £140 (you dont need the renault crank pin at £36, a lazer one will do at £10) If you dont use genuine tools, the timing WILL be out

engine out??? you're having a laugh!!! Bumper and slam panel off and there's a fair amount of access

sounds like it's in limp home mode. that suggests the AFM or MAP sensor isn't wired/plugged in correctly

best purchase ever

Same view here. I've built several high power engines with uprated rods, and that fact they're in there gives me confidence in their durability. They could probably have been "got away with", but i'd rather a les critical part was the limiting factor

that's the rear

yup. It's "quite" quick ;)

Without checking the manual, i'm reasonably sure it's 275Nm

quite simply the worst thing you can fit to your car. I've disintegrated 3 sets of greens, on 3 different cars, only one set purchased by me i'll add. That's with road use only. A set of £9 ACdelco pads was a huge improvement

no

This smacks of having never actually looked and compared. Most of the "cheap" rods are very high tollerence. I've compared rods from multiple sources, and they're all identical. I wouldn't trust stock rods in an engine that goes over 7.5k regularly, even with ARPs. One set of very expensive...

worth noting the parasitic loses of driving a rotrex are nominal. Tiny in comparison to an Eaton

All of it. Quality hardware from the start pays dividends in power, and all running in general. Anything but Jenvey TBs are normally a s**t to balance. A well developed loom may seem expensive, but if you try to build one from scratch, you'll make little saving, and the end result will unlikey...

if you're going to use bike stuff, why convert carbs? just use bike ITBs. The manifolds i've seen aren't very good though

wasn't a great article TBH

RB30 om nom nom

normally dont like black wheel at all, but that suits

your car doesn't have an AFM/MAF

they do run lumpy on idle. the bodge around will have made it rich, and that can smooth it out. Is it running better generally?

god i want an s13 silvia

I'd go for v-maxx coilovers on a budget

are you on O2?