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depends on the center bore, peugeots can be funny as they require a larger bore than most

in terms of fitting, just use the plenum that matches the TB that you need, job done. The Ph1 cylinder head ports are rather different to the ph2, normally see slightly better power from a ph1

pics?

nothing i've tried so far. A LOT of black silicon sealer over a small hole works for a few weeks if you clean up the boot and rough the surface so it can stick, then let it go off for at least a day before use. The double bonus of a new shaft is the outer boot on the new genuine ones are...

that's not a servicable one sadly. tried loads of times to find a suitable solution. New shaft is the only proper fix

i've got them off before. Big hammer, a vice and a drift

renault do a boot kit for the outer. A universal one would work just fine as long as you get the best clips you can find and not cable ties

this is a worthy method. Cleaned up several like this, good lubrication and de-gritting is the key :)

unplug the sensor first, It should revert to a safe map (not economical) having a faulty sensor plugged in can often cause a lot of problems, you'll be better off with nothing for a short period.

is it not working now? what difference would it make not being plugged in? lol

I dont like lambda sensor sockets personally. I've found them to open up and slip, pretty much every time i've tried to use one. If you really need a socket on there (and he sensor is dead) a normal 22mm deep socket will be the best thing once you've snipped the wires off

what you've found is the infamous ebay "chip" It frigs the signl to the ecu, and just causes overfueling. remove the resistor and plug in the sensor and you should get better economy and gain some performance back

lowering springs was what i was refering to as eibachs ;)

22mm

coilovers, or at minimum a set of eibach springs

used copper crush washers a few times and it's never been an issue. Never had any sump plug washer leak at all actually

White

no, I was passing through. Quite a regular route of mine though :)

if the sensor is dead, cut the wire off and put a ring spanner on and hit it HARD

Just coming up to the first roundabout outside Bicester from Buckingham direction, about 3.30 yesterday. Very nice :)

could be an aux belt change included, that's a "36k" service

jap starters are just as bad. trouble with the renaults IMO is the proximity to the exhaust manifold. Removal of the starter, and a good clean and re-lube of the solenoid often loses the issue for a good long while

oh it was tip-top. I was only working on the car to fix the wrecked gearbox and sort an oil leak. Forgot to mention, the bottom bolt on the new aux tensioner was loose, and the lower idler hadn't been changed despite a kit being paid for. "not included" apparently :|

upper to lower AND lower to head. You're right about not matching exactly to the gasket, a lot are done like that and it's not correct. Re-fitting correctly once they're machined is very important too. I've rectified a set just this week that were worse than standard. Didn't help that the...

you'll find that on a lot of renaults, same bracket used on the F3R/P, F7R/P, 172 cup and more.

that's CHEAP!!

Exactly. Far too much emphasis on the name of something just because of the way it bolts together TBH. It's all a manifold, the plenum is part of the manifold

I also dont know where £80 has come from, the dephaser alone costs more than that new, than about 4-5 hours labour and a new belt (just a belt, the rest will be ok as it's so new)

I'm sure yours wasn't actually the dephaser pulley, i was shown a picture and it was the exhaust pulley that had failed. I'm 99.9% sure

it was only a rough guide, dynamic CR will change loads with different cams, so you'll only ever get close (within 1 bar ish i'd say) with a rule of thumb it's roughly right if you take stock static CR as 10.9:1. multiplied by 17 you get 185, and a good health 172 engine is normally around 190psi