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peak power and torque will be increased. The mods you've listed make minimal measurable gains apart from inlet matching which can do quite a lot in relative terms, but without them there will be restriction once you go furthur, ie. fitting cams. Standard exhaust is poop IMO, hard to get good...
oh dont misunderstand me, cams work. You will normally see good gains, but they will be higher in the rev range. Also seem to make the engine free-er revving IMO. Does depend what ones you use though.
if you want low down gains, I dont think you want cams first TBH. Proper mapping will have great gains above the standard generic calibration. Inlet manifold Matching will also give reasonable bhp and nice torque gains. For ultimate torque gains, throttle bodies. Collected Adeys car yesterday...
422s are pretty wild, the extra lift at TDC over 428s will be a problem with standard pistons. Wont idle for s**t on the standard ECU either, especially with fly-by-wire throttle as on all ph2s (which does the idle control) If you insist on standard ECU, 428s are what i would use most of the time.
they look like 90mm trumpets, which work well with Jenveys, and that setup looks a very similar overall induction length.
The 106 we prepped and mapped last week had the bulkhead modded like that when we go it. Gained 20bhp from the previous ECU and mapping which we were well pleased with :D
forgetting the fact it comes with a pre-mapped ECU and a loom that needs just 5 wires splicing into the car loom. EVERY bracket, bolt, cabletie, P-clip, sensor and a full set of fitting instructions. It's far from JUST parts
flush can do a good job of freeing up a sticky lifter or the like. If the engine is really clogged up then yes it can loosen things which weren't causing a problem and make them an issue.
looks like it's a control unit for things like active yaw control, active damping, general data logging and telemetry rather than being an engine management solution.
they're kind of semi-captives. I've spun a few, normally the front ones, just had to break the retainer clip then treat it as a normal nut and bolt. Swan neck spanner gets in there once the clip's gone