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FLOL at moving the piston to gauge ring wear hahaha, pistons will always move in the bore to some extent, excessive movement would be down to worn pistons or bores, if the bores are visually in good condition, then it's a fair bet that the pistons will be fine. If it's not burning oil at all, do...

yes, we do. Various benefits in my opinion and experience, engine will run smoother, I've seen it many times. Less energy is wasted as vibration so ultimately transmitted to the wheels. Better bearing reliability (more noticable on engines prone to bearing wear/failure) The engineers we use...

the standard coil on the 172/182 is as good as you'll need, even with forced induction. It's a very good part

bolt doesn't look broken to me, but it does look like it's pulled the thread out of the bracket

rolling road is a mapping tool. Figures are secondary TBH. a useful indicator and good for showing where improvements can be made, but they never tell the whole story

yeah, 172 and 182 manifolds are both very well designed IMO

take the sensor out, leave it plugged in, and tuck it up behind the heatshield in the tunnel. You will need a bung or an old sensor to plug the hole

be quite funny to try one if it was £20 not £200. Complete waste of money IMO

exhaust manifold? not much point as the manifold entry is already larger than the ports in the head

a caddy is on my list of car to own, has been for years actually, and the list gets longer not shorter :(

how can you tell that? only stated mileage not age ;) does need an aux belt minimum though

exactly the same, just dont put anything on the water pipes

1.4 16v box should fit. if the speedo is dont off the ABS it doesn't matter if there's a speed sensor in the box, it just doesn't get plugged in. mk1 1.8 8v rsi box is probably a good option

absolfeckinglutely!!!1 on both counts

No chance. It's a job to be done with a vise and a bucket of water. Getting the wrap wet helps it to stretch and mould nicely. Getting the wrap tight is important as is uniform overlapping (50% overlap on each pass which gives you a double layer all over)

tried a re-winding specialist?

Motor factors. plenty in yellow pages ;) you want an NGK or Bosch sensor really, ideally not anything cheaper

looks a bit like a valver de-cat

decent quality boxes for a center section TBH. Fitted a couple of cherrybomb muff-diver boxes to help with noise levels for track use and they did the job spot on. Back boxes are a bit tack though

Std headbolts are ok, just use the higher end of the torque tollerence range

call Jamie Oliver

no special tool needed, just a hammer and a pin-punch

best thing you can do is talk to Curtis. the normal road setup is very capable and probably all you will need

sounds like a worn CV to me. if the boot has come off it often doesn't matter if you re-pack it with grease, the joint may be worn already.

Think Charlies is rigged up to automatic adjustment. Helped out running a day down there early this year. Not spoken to him for ages actually

one instance that i can identify, and lots of repeated references by lots of people to that one instance. Doesn't quantify a bad mod to me one little bit.

quite fancy an RSI actually, have a play with a K4M

ASTs are fantastic

I want a ph1 now. Git

ph1 uses the shorter straight one (same as a mk1)