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Yeah sounds like it’s popped the circlip.

I’m pretty sure they’re different mate, but I can’t say 100%

Seen it done loads of times mate without issue.

The best engine flush is diesel. Seen it used on plenty of engines without issue. Just drop the oil and refill with diesel. Run the engine up for 5 minutes, then drain it off. As diesel is also a lubricant, there are no issues with seals and bearings.

There’s easier ways to improve the handling of your Clio without wasting your time trying to convert to this setup.

ANYTHING can be adapted to fit/work if you’ve got the knowledge/expertise/money to do it. Those hubs are only a small part of why that chassis handles the way it does though. It’s not just a simple case of getting them in there, then it’ll handle the same way as a mk3 Clio/meg.

There aren’t any upgrades to do I’m afraid. I sorted out some improved synchros a few years back, but there wasn’t enough interest to warrant continuing with them.

I’d be confident that they were mate yes. That’s why when I looked at making some universal 280/300 brackets, we were going to have them hard anodised.

I’m pretty sure the original Renault sport brackets were made from aluminium mate. These are just a copy of those.

I’m pretty sure they’re 120nm, but it was a long time ago that I had some off.

It’s not even worth worrying about in terms of weight mate as the conversion still makes it lighter than the oe calipers setup!

Get on it mate! Zinc plated and they’d be fine.

Whoah!! That’s not good mate!!! This is the reason they should’ve been hard anodised to help prevent issues like this! When I looked into making a universal 280/300 bracket, that’s exactly what we were going to do to prevent potential issues like this arising.

You’ll need to remove the box and strip it down to replace the selector shaft seal. There’s no seal behind the passenger shaft mate - it’s a boot that’s on the driveshaft similar to a cv boot. It’s held secure with 3 8mm bolts.

Casing halves can leak around the sealing face, diff seals can leak, selector shaft seal, or the n/s driveshaft rubber boot could have leaked. Unlikely on that one though as the oil level is lower than the boot.

No problem at all mate. You’ll find some of the most helpful and knowledgeable people on this forum who can answer a whole range of questions from Clio related issues to snapped banjo strings ?.

Ok, it’s time to calm down in here please folks. @JS.S I don’t think there was any malice meant in the original post you quoted tbh, but that’s not to say it’s right or I agree with it. Unfortunately you will see far worse things said in here that are posted with no malice intended, and...

Yeah sounds favourable then mate. If your ears are telling you it’s coming from the front, it’s the front. Rears sound like a noise from the back of you get me?

@DomP182 if you turn to the left or right, does the noise stop or increase? This is the easiest way to find a noisy bearing. Turn to the left and the noise increases - it's the right hand wheel bearing and vice versa.

Alex is sound. Very capable bloke and sensible prices. Knows his way around Renaultsports too.

This kit didn’t fit under 15’s as I ran 16’s, but it was a custom 295 bell and rotor setup. 2.5mm machined off the brembos to accommodate the 295 disc using 300mm brackets. The bell and rotor setup will set you back around £500 ish if you know where to go.

You’d need to leave the box with me mate as I do them in my spare time.

To sort out the crunchy synchros you’re looking at £300 all in mate. I’m in Lichfield.

Could be a lambda that’s s**t itself mate. Worth having a nose over the wiring to both the lambda sensors too. What’s up with the engine/box? I can rebuild your box if it’s salvageable.

Well my 230 n/a motor was kept cool by the same rad that you’ve got, but it was definitely being pushed to cool it when you were making progress. The laminova coolers I had for the engine and gear oil wouldn’t have helped as they add more heat into the system, but it was being pushed.

That golf rad won’t cut it @Martin. If you were to have a custom made rad in the same dimensions with a wrc spec core, it’ll work well enough. You’d need to duct air through it though like I did on mine. Gets maximum efficiency.

You missed a bit mate. ??

Fire away mate.

@SharkyUK I can tidy up the thread at any time, so just say the word mate.

Yeah I know what you’re saying mate. It’s w**k that it doubled up as an ecu mounting place too. ?