Search results

@Daniel get in here quick! He’s on the ropes about the springs and spacers, so nows your chance to get him to go for white wheels as well!! ?

They do look so much better lowered and spaced mate. Possibly slightly harsher ride from the springs, but I’ve never driven a 200 on standard cup pack suspension. From what I’ve read, most people say it’s neither here nor there though in terms of harshness. Mine drives fine though.

Could this mean yours is potentially going to be lowered and spaced if he comes back with answer ‘yes mate’?!?! ?

Cut the crank sensor bracket off your box and mount it on the engine. Start it and see if it runs ok, but I doubt it’ll have damaged it tbf.

That’s the taper roller bearings for the mainshaft that’s let go. Most likely at the diff end. They always fail. I imagine it’s been rumbling for a while now and finally let go.

Fuckin goons.

@Jamesgsi1983 ANY performance cams for an n/a engine won’t work due to valve overlap etc in a forced induction engine. Forced induction engines don’t need the same things as a n/a engine to make horsepower. The standard cams work the best in that scenario. You’re trying to chase the impossible...

I’ll keep you both posted.

Ah yeah forgot that bit! Lol! £550 mate.

Yeah you need to blank all 3 mate

There will be a limited number available in the coming months as we are running off some spares for stock just in case anyone needs them. I can drop you a pm when they’re available if you want?

Well you can’t block the solenoid valve for obvious reasons. A restrictor could be used, but you’d have to trial and error it as it may reduce the oil flow enough to have an impact on the vvt operation.

Scoff at EFI Parts sells the ecu’s so I would imagine he has the plugs.

No problem.

You want a 5-6mm oil restrictor in the drilling at the bottom of the head where the block feeds it. Also, remove the vvt solenoid and make up an identical oversize copy of the solenoid. Heat the head up and send it in the hole. It needs to be oversize so the head grips it once it cools down...

Are you still running vvt?

Unfortunately it’s a flaw in the design of the cylinder head on the 1*2 mate. You can improve the situation by fitting a restrictor in the cylinder head oilway though. We also modified the oil pumps to improve their pumping efficiency as well.

I’ve seen datalogs for a f4r producing a whopping 11psi hot oil pressure around the hairpin at Mallory........ The cause? Larger tolerances/clearances and an extremely shite vvt system that haemorrhages oil!

If you logged the oil pressure on an f4r, you would genuinely cry once you saw the results. They’re shocking!

You have to pay the membership mate to access that area. I currently have no gearboxes for sale though.

It’s due to the lack of counterbalance weights on the crank mate. If it’s going to spin, the tags on the block/rods won’t stop it. The crank flexes due to the poor design. Trust me mate, I’ve been around these engines now for quite some time, so I know their downfalls.

King bearings have larger tolerances iirc as they’re more race biased, so you’re better off with standard bearings. Also, that crank is one of the ones that will potentially spin a centre main. All luck of the draw though I’m afraid.

Yep. ?

My Paypal is: ??

You’ve knocked the selector fork down for 5th gear 100%. Take the cover off and manually lift it up so the selector ring is level with the hub. DO NOT pull it any further otherwise you’ll be in a world of pain.

Dunno mate. Not something I’ve looked into.

Yes mate, you can use the exhaust manifold on a 172 head if that’s what you’re wanting to do. The 172 inlet manifold will most likely foul the turbo on a 225 manifold, so you’re better off getting a log manifold. Gives more scope for turbo choice as well with a log manifold.

225 inlet won’t fit on a 197 head as the ports aren’t the same. Bolt pattern is the same though. Turbo manifold will fit on any f4r though

It could be that spring mate yeah, but it may be internal as well. Replace the spring and try it, as the spring is the cheaper option! Lol

Is it?! Lol didn’t pay enough attention clearly! @Phil555 Rubber gasket on the sump. Could be rear main oil seal as well if it’s leaking in that area.