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Yep. That’s the casing join mate so it’ll need to be opened up to fix.

It’s more the time and cost of removing the box tbh mate. I can sort the box if you can get it out and up to me though. Nah they’ll make it leak worse than it does now. Awful things!

Selector seal and casing leak. Both need the box opening to fix I’m afraid.

Search my username on here mate, and you’ll see I’m quite well regarded for gearbox rebuilds on jc5’s. I’ll pm you later on mate.

I have a 130 that I’ll be rebuilding and selling soon @JavsMotor Shipped them abroad before as well. Nothing available synchro wise, but it’s advisable to run better oil in the box to help with longevity.

Yes I noticed mate! At least it served you well all the way to the win though.

Awesome. f**king. Race! Loved it!

At your own risk, but I’d say no tbh mate. I know what RenaultSport did on the R3 access cars, and if it worked well, they would’ve used it. But they didn’t.

Great news mate!

It’s the only option for that seal mate. Just be aware you have to open the box and strip everything out to replace that seal mate. You won’t get away with removing just the seal.

If it’s the seal in the release bearing guide tube, do yourself a favour and buy it from Renault. They’re about £20+ vat from memory. If it’s the seal in the bearing housing, you need to open the box up as it comes as a complete bearing and seal housing. £35+ vat for that one. Easy way to...

If you want the rear lively just add toe out or make the rear parallel. Simple and effective. It’s how mine was setup, and worked very well. Up front the (original) roll centre hubs and (original) bump correction made the steering more precise.

No problem for a decent machinist.

Those sring rates were more to suit my driving style.

I do that amount in a month in my daily driver, but I rarely have the time to use the AG mate.

I bought the AG in 2016 and I’ve only just done over 1k in that time......?

My deepest condolences to you, your wife and family mate. Awful news, but he is at peace now.

What jobs they got you doing at work then?

The design more than anything mate.

Steel or aluminium sump? And you should know better than to overtighten a sump plug!! ?

Post a pic up of your crank mate and I’ll be able to tell you how likely it is to happen.

They all have their foibles unfortunately mate. The 133 box is just a different version of the jc5.

Lots of ways to reduce it, but it all costs money mate. The ph2 172 crank is also a pos, so that doesn’t help the job along.

They do. The companies are called Sadev and Bacci Romano. You need deep pockets though! Lol!!

As said on the phone @Nathan Evans, I can possibly modify the diff to have a bolt in plate to get rid of the stupid circlip....need to see what damage awaits us internally though.

Nah. The f4r is quite common for spinning the centre main, blocking off the oil feed to the big ends and the rest is history I’m afraid.

Move the engine over and check wishbone bushes. Failing that you need a standard shaft from a 172 to compare the length with.

@Tomo3292 here’s the R3 197 engine specs.

They’re what I was going to suggest funnily enough

They may not like the extra heat from the raised CR mate.