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Cheers mate. :up:
Yeah it's pretty much impossible to capture the true colour mate. Look loads better in the flesh.
Cheers. Yeah still happy with it. Got a few other bits and pieces in the pipeline for it.
The 200's are a nice car mate. Totally different experience compared to the 1*2...
Seeing as we've had some decent weather today, I decided it was time to give the AG some proper attention.
I started off by going over the entire car with a clay bar and found that it's nice and clean tbh. This was the clay bar after doing the bonnet: Not much dirt at all!
I then set about...
Schaublin made the original bearings iirc. I got aurora replacements with a teflon liner for about £35 a bearing. Any decent bearing shop will be able to supply them. SS16 is the original part number that they can cross reference @Michaelfoz
Ok so to answer your questions mate!
1) yeah they have a dephaser on them still but it's a redesigned unit and a lot more reliable. I only know of a few that have gone faulty as well.
2) the whining noise could be the breather one way valve at the throttle body. There's a few that I've seen...
@BIGASH owns a pukka x85 cup racer and apart from a few gearbox repairs it's been relatively trouble free. Obviously you're going to go through consumables, but I know that the car is driven hard (and properly) every time it goes out.
I had a diff and flywheel in my track cup and that was used on the road without any issue. Reducing rotational mass is always worth doing as it will improve engine response.
I have hopes that the same will apply to my AG200 in the future. With only 55 in the uk, everyone's gotta have a dream! Lol!
I looked at getting an r26r when I was looking for the AG, but they were more than I ideally wanted to spend. Nice looking R @Ant1
Lol! Right so what condition are your dampers in currently? You'll need the tracking resetting as well, so it's not that much of a cheap job if you get me?
Personally I wouldn't bother with a cage again. I'd just go with suspension, but I'd consider a rear cage. Clios are already fairly rigid as they are imo.
That's not to say a cage won't improve on that or keep you safe in the event of an accident though!
Put the gearbox in reverse and then put the gear lever into the reverse position (obviously). When the gear lever is in the reverse position, zip tie it over to the left and make it as tight as possible. You'll then have no selection issues when everything is tightened up. That's how I did mine...
That kit only does bearings, synchros and seals. You'll almost certainly require gears as well. Then some of the synchros in that kit won't be any good as they've changed the design of them for 1st and 2nd gear.
You're into around £1500 easily to fit a Quaife and refurb the box at the same time. It'll have signs of wear in ANY jc5 box. I know, I've stripped and rebuilt enough now.
@LeeP86 now offers Nurburgring recovery for anyone reading this who's interested. You won't get a more professional service.
http://www.apexmotorsportlogistics.co.uk/
They're an M9 thread pitch and I think they're available from SBD Developments mate. I hope you're sitting down though, as they're the most overkill item you could ever wish to purchase! Lol! Snapping flywheel bolts is thankfully not something the f4r does.
Sterling work! I always look forward to updates in this thread, and once again, it's delivered!
I cannot wait to see the finished article now.
Regards the arm strength, I find copious amounts of wanking really helps the job along. 😂
Personally I wouldn't use a direnza rad again. I'd bite the bullet and pay for a proper spec motorsport core, as they're far more efficient at cooling compared to the direnza items. That's just my opinion though mate!
As a bare minimum I'd frame the rad to stop the airflow spilling around it...