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Well in that case, I'd consider the rears at 100/110, and the fronts at 100. The rear end will be lively with 120's at the rear, even in the dry. Once you've generated some heat in the rear tyres it should be fine, but it's just having the confidence to build that heat.

@r0ss172 give this fella a call and have a chat with him. http://www.1stclassalloys.co.uk/ He does everything from high end to poverty spec cars, and his workmanship is 2nd to none. He only does powder coating, but if anyone can do the MR rims, he's your man.

Are you using this car on the road as well mate?

Yeah I think it would work really well with the black rims.

The damping on the ast's will be night and day better than the spax. On my old cup I ran 450 up front and 475 at the rear. I also drove it on the road with that setup, and not once did I require a gum shield.

Job for the winter I think. :up:

Well it is a genuine cup racer that he's got, so yeah I agree. Lol! He's had a standard back box fitted to it though so he can do normal noise limit uk trackdays.

Oh yeah you were going to do one a few weeks back! No turning back for me anyway as the akra will be here next week. Kid. Sweet shop. :up:

@BIGASH will confirm that these are horrendously loud! Think ears bleedingly loud, even with a skid lid on!

The akra is the nearest sound to a cup racer imo, but substantially quieter! Lol!!

Cheers mate! Yeah they will look loads better now for sure. I have a filthy desire to paint the calipers AG too. I just don't feel that the red works! 🙈 I'm liking your clubsport progress too mate. :up:

Looking at the pics, it could do with either a touch more camber to reduce to positive camber, or add more castor. Adding castor is the most preferential way.

No problem at all mate. Yeah will do. Should be all sorted by the beginning of next week, but if it's sooner I'll drop you a text.

Just some acrylic satin black that we have at work! Lol! You can have the one I've got here when you come for those tyres mate if you want. :up:

Cheers mate. :smiley:

Had a few hours spare today, so made a start on making a few cosmetic changes to the 200. The hub/disc centres were painted silver and I felt it stood out too much with the gloss black wheels. Out with the old! And in with the new! I also took @Christopher 's advice and painted the spacers...

Buy cheap buy twice mate

They were only any good on grp a rally cars though mate. With 320/330bhp and a torque figure to match, it'll twist the casing irrespective of what you do to it. Steel selector forks only came with the dog box kits from memory, but I can soon have some billet en24t items cnc'd up! Lol

You can change them over, but it's not the best of things to be doing from a tolerance point of view. If you are definitely going to do it, make sure that you fit the cams first with a bit of oil on the journals, then make sure you can turn them! If you can't, you need to try another cover, or...

Decent oil and a gearbox oil cooler are the only things that will help the jc5 stand up to that sort of power output in the long term. Redline mtl is the oil of choice. Clutch wise I'd consider the Sachs clutch from pms. Cheap? No. more reliable than a helix paddle? In my experience, hell yeah.

If it weren't for bad luck, you'd have no luck at all!

The joint is held on with a clip mate. Wipe all the grease away and it will be obvious.

Yeah I'm nigh on 100% that they're m10x1.

I think the bell housing is a changeable item yeah. Spun the centre main? That's the usual thing. What was your oil pressure? What were your bearing tolerances?

Erm, well yeah, It's mot'd so it made sense to put it up on stands in the garage! Cup 2's will be on and fitted shortly, but for the time being, it'll be like this. :wink:More to come. :cool:

I think you'll need custom shafts tbh mate. I took the easier route and put a 197 head on a 172 block.

Yes but you'll need to wire it into the 1*2 ecu plug mate. You'll also need Sean @ktec to send you an aspect file to allow the gen90 to run the full vvt. It's a relatively straightforward conversion tbh

The engine and box will fit in the mk2's. Not sure if you need to do anything fancy with the dogbone and gearbox mount though. As for wiring, you'll need to transplant the 197 ecu and loom in unless you want to run it on a gen90 or another standalone. The 197 runs fully variable inlet cam...

They're kam racings own brand of spring.

Afraid not mate. You'd need to find out the internal diameter of the fronts and order some stiffer springs from the likes of Faulkner springs. For the rears you'd have to get custom made springs, or fanny about with short springs and a reduction of damper travel to stop them dislocating.