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I'd say a realistic maximum is £550-£600 is what to expect, but obviously that depends on what you find when it's opened up. It could well be cheaper. The usual cost for a rebuild on a jc5 is £380-£400 in parts for example, and that includes all seals, 3rd and 4th gears + synchros and the...

@Chambers_RS has some in his build thread

Depends on how soon you're wanting it done tbh mate. I've got a few in front of you currently! Lol!

Renault have changed the material that the synchro is made from now to prevent further problems. They're only about £30, but I anticipate it will have damaged the dog teeth on the gear and selector hub too if it's been crunching for a while.

I would do yeah. If you want something to keep adjusting and faffing with, go with the 3.

Yup I preferred it over the pms shifter tbh

@Ricardos have you got a shot to show how far the original wheels are tucked in?

I quite like that! And now I feel ashamed for admitting it 😂

Not off the top of my head mate no.

Eibach camber bolts are the usual choice

Just done a slight edit @cs_dave :up:

More likely to be the cam seals mate.

I think this thread has run its course now.

Cheers mate! I'll have those measurements shortly. Time is something I am very short of currently.

Yep. They're absolutely brilliant............ At ruining your jc5 gearbox.

So, another update............ Full evolution system. More to come. :cool:

Done mate.

The timings out, but not on the cams Tony. Its the ignition timing that's basically not been input to where it needs to be......

You can't get anywhere near the price of a service exchange box if you add it all up with new bearings and seals. I'd be finding out the lead time for a service exchange box as well tbh. Last time I enquired (a month or so ago) there was no lead time given - as in no stock!

Yeah it is what I thought I was looking at then unfortunately Pete. Give ED a chance to map the engine and see what it makes mate I say. Ultimately, a mapped f4r making good power is worth more like that, than one in kit form. Just thinking that at least you can still break it if you get it...

@mossyv6 will be able to point you in the right direction here mate.

If it's what I'm thinking it is, then f**king lol!! That's not even a bad map, that's a f**king disgrace.

There's a bit of s**t on the strut brace @cs_dave Flol!

If we can do a weekend I'll be able to come to the next one. :up:

If the front section is joined to the main hoop with the bolted sleeve (most omp cages are like this), I'd just get the front section re made by a reputable company personally. It'll save you the hassle of messing about reshelling the car, and buying a new cage. There are a fair few companies...

If it's a safety devices dash dodger, you can get it exchanged for a non dash dodger mate. There's a thread on here, so I'd have a look and see if you qualify. Assuming it's an SD cage of course.

@JP83 you don't need longer bolts for the aerocatches mate, you just need to make the hole in the lower skin big enough for you to get a socket on. Aerocatches secured on one skin only is fine, and mine were tested up to 156mph at the Nurburgring. :wink:

If only I'd known! Will be in touch in the future if I need any more though mate! Don't suppose you can get paddle clutches repadded can you?

Kw use Koni adjustables mate. It's worth an ask mate, but I'm sure I've read it before that they're 400lb now I've had time to think about it.

Well kw v2's are 336lb fronts and i was quite surprised to read that the bilsteins are 400! They're not that expensive from Faulkner, so it's not a bad idea tbf mate