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Not the best of pictures, but if you zoom in it's to the left of the lifting eye.

You might make it easier if you can take a picture of it all laid out so people can see mate.

I'm interested in this if you do have to sell mate.

Ah i see! Never tried it tbh mate.

Say whaaaa?

No worries. That's the benefit of being on a forum like this I suppose. :up:

Bigash ran no stat in until I convinced him it was needed. He shrouded the rad at the same time and got a noticeable drop in ct's mate.

You'll need top mounts or adjustable wishbone bushes mate to adjust the castor. Toe - 10 to 15mins Camber - start at 3 degrees and see what the tyre temps are like.

Put a 197 stat in it mate. Essentially you've just created a big kettle. The water needs a restriction to slow it down otherwise it just passes straight through the rad and it hardly has time to remove the gear from the coolant. With no restriction, the temperature will just go up and up...

As much as you can get basically mate. If that means modifying inner arches/brackets to do so, then do it. You'll lose some wheelbase, but we are only talking a matter of mm, so unless you're some f1 driver, I strongly doubt you'll notice it.

As in no thermostat?? Please tell me you haven't done this!

Ah yeah sorry I forgot who's car this was originally. AH fabrication are s**t hot, so that rad should be man enough tbf. I'd throw in a 197 stat for good measure too.

Some do look like this from what I've seen. My cup was/is certainly like this.

Add castor. Reduces camber in turns and is often overlooked by near enough everyone.

You want to put a frame around the rad to catch the air rather than allow it to spill over the sides. Air is like a lazy human - takes the path of least resistance. And you may also need to stump up the cash and have a proper motorsport spec fabricated rad. They really are worth the money.

How much did her nails cost?! I jest of course. Congratulations mate!

Get a nut, weld it to the top of the locking wheel nut, then remove. Just make sure your weld is strong enough.

Ah right.

Yes 100% without a shadow of doubt. Or someone's fitted a 182 diff/renfort off eBay. Have you used it yet? If yes, does it whine/howl? This would indicate that they've only swapped the crownwheel and not the pinion if it does.

What was I filmed on?!

As in a paper clip? 😂

You need to find a jc5 130 gearbox mate. They're the ones with a bolt in plate. I don't have any spare as I use them to upgrade the 172 boxes/non plate boxes. Oh and they're not quite a 'retrofit' mate. You need to machine the diff.

You need to combine it with a lot of other expensive stuff to see the true benefits. Fitting it requires the use of a 197 head as well, and this needs a small amount of work to suit the 1*2 block. That engine build in my pic made 230hp. Combine the right bits and that's the end result.

I'd always primer first mate, but not sure on the brand of paint in the picture. Never come across that before tbh.

There's value in all of that what you are classing as scrap mate!

I had my brembos blasted to remove all the old crap, but it did mean that they needed a set of dust boots on them. They were blasted with iron filings from memory as normal blast media either didn't cut the mustard, or was too aggressive. After that I gave them a coat of Acid 8 etch primer...

Well if we are photo whorring, here's mine on the old engine @Chambers_RS you have to hack the coil pack mount off the inlet for a mk1 f4r conversion from memory.

You're looking at about £500-£600 labour for someone to supply and fit. On a ramp it's a doddle to do, but the subframe may have other ideas.

Sorry mate EFA. Do it right or don't f**king bother.

Your issue is the oil pressure output from the pump mate. Returning that to a reservoir will be under massive pressure.