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They're let down by the embossed team dynamics writing on the rim imho! Pro race 1's were my preferred choice but they were replaced with the 1.2's!

Your welcome mate! Refitting tomorrow then yeah??

I'd say he's had a 182 jc5 130 diff fitted.

68'on the rear and 90's on the front.

Looks good on the gold wheels. :up:

Yeah I'd clocked it on the pictures that Nath sent to me the other day and mentioned it to him. He overlooked it from the excitement of getting them done! Lol! The main thing is that it's being sorted though. Nice set of paperweights though. 🙈 Yeah I remember that from back in the...

Cheers. It's already in hand mate. These are being binned and redone with the radius. Machinist has made a mistake, so they're being sorted FOC.

They look f**king awesome mate! Very much looking forward to getting these fitted!

Don't worry, it won't mate. :up:

Well if you want turn in, then you want the rear beam toe set to around parallel or toe out. It'll make the rear end lively though, so you've been warned! Lol

I seem to recall that Renault modified the circlip when you buy a replacement one. They just made it thicker so it fills the groove better. It's by no means a permanent fix though imo.

If you want more toe out then you'll have to cut a few mm off the track rods, but personally if you've got 1.4mm (assuming it's mm?) then you've got enough imo, as it equates to around 14 minutes in old money.

In rear beam terms, that's not actually that bad! Only way to square that up is with shims. The caster is adjustable with either Ast top mounts as @barnesautos has said, or with the pms adjustable wishbone bushes.

You need to completely shroud the intercooler mate for maximum efficiency. I did it on my Astra turbo intercooler and put a frame that followed the entire opening and contour of the bumper. Worked really well, hence why I've done something similar on the radiator for the cup.

Can't wait to get these fitted!!

Yes you need to get it sorted out mate. The ecu will rely on it to calculate fuelling/turbo boost etc.

@Chambers_RS this is correct what he's saying. The original fan is a pull type, so the shroud helps the fan to pull all the air through the rad.

Thought you might! :wink:

Torque and heat will kill off a brand new clutch in no time mate, especially when it's being asked to hold twice the torque figure! Assuming this is a standard of course. @steve f you've got yourself a flying machine with those figures!!

Is it on a 1*2? This is the knock sensor plug/wiring. 1 white, 1 red and brown plug. It also has a black wire that's used to shield the outer insulation from interference.

The part you require isn't available separately from Renault. I keep them in stock for when I convert the diffs from circlip to bolt in. Just because someone couldn't answer what is quite an obscure question isn't a reason to slur the technical expertise or quality of the forum imo. I rebuild...

Not on a jc5! Lol

I'll text you later mate.

Keep the original crank pulley mate, as in don't scrap it.

Yes mate. They're all cnc machined from the factory.

Thermocouple?! Thermostat surely?! Lol

That's just how they look mate unfortunately. There's no way to get them to sit lower.

The brake pad swept area on the Meg/197 brembos are smaller than the available swept area on the scenic 300mm discs. I'm not aware of any pads that are deep enough to cover the entire disc face, but happy to be proven wrong. This is one of the reasons I'm going for a separate rotor and bell...

Crank thread pitch is m9x1 mate and the marks in the cylinder head are cnc marks. They all have them mate, so no dodgy diy porting done there.

Lol no worries mate!