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Just a stab in the dark but a couple of years ago i tried to go down the path of getting the Marelli ECU mapped and Matt at TDF was quite knowledgable on the subject. He might not be able to map it but might know someone who can?

Not to bad, have plenty of cams lieing about. Yeah i was thinking about fastchip custom map as its a lot of hassle and expense for me to get over to the UK. Not sure how good they will be though?

Look to be pretty good value. Is there an exchange surcharge on send your old cams back or is it an outright sale? Also how safe would it be to run these without a remap? would need to get the car over to the UK to have it mapped but wouldnt be able to do this straight away.

My cup racer uses Sadev driveshafts, completely different to the road car stuff. This thread was in relation to my Williams really as i want sure whether the Cup driveshafts were longer than normal. Chip i had cup ones one my Williams and it proper ate the bumper lol. Fine now its rubbed...

Nice thread revival lol. So all the 1 piece 172 shafts are the same then, makes sense for only 5mm extra width per side on the suspension side. The uniballs are quite a bit wider again but would probably get away with it on standard shafts. A small spacer between the CV and Hub would probably...

Its illegal unless the ID is sold with a large amount of the vehicle parts ie: engine, front and rear axles etc as you have to use the majority of the original vehilces parts to reuse the ID and it has to be built into brandnew shell with an invoice from the manufacturer. Looks to me that car...

It will yes because it creates more leverage on the steering.

Yep thats what the ones that came with the car are like. But the ones you can get from speedline now are much heavier more like 9kg each, the spokes are much deeper and thicker and the inner edge of the rim is also much thicker. Its as if the ones on the cup racers were specially made for them...

Ok cheers mate.

Fair enough, ive never been able to find any markings to confirm offset on them which is why I wasnt sure. All i know is the new ones i bought weight a tonne compared to the ones that came on the car!

How much did the adjustable wishbones and subframe modification cost in the end? Looks very well engineered. Something ill definitaly look at adding to my car in the near future.

Wasn't aimed at you anyway mate. All I was saying is that the wheels that came with my UK spec car appear to sit further In than ET43 wheels which could possibly mean a higher offset. Could just be an illusion though.

If you can find me one for 3.5k that doesnt need another 1-2k throwing at it in rebuild costs ill buy it! 5-5.5k is easily worth it for a well maintained box, the fact it can go on on standard mounts as well is also a huge benifit. Ash is right about the cup racers to. Your going to be paying...

Are you sure? Id be more inclined to say UK cars used ET48 as well. If you look at the depth of the spoke on the ET43 wheels they are much deeper (heavier) than the ones fitted on the UK cars and when compared to the wheels on the Euro cars look identical. I dont see why they would have changed...

Im not actually sure UK spec cup racers did have ET38 wheels you know. I have one and i swear the ET43 version sits further out than the ones that came with the car. Never measured it but my ET43's rub more.

Id speak to these guys: http://competitionsystems.co.uk/index.php will probably be able to point you in the right direction. Fairplay for finding a ECU that would fit the standard loom. I ended up going Omex and cannibalising the engine loom to make a new one.

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Id love to know a way of preventing it from sticking to, I have 20 basically new 2118's which are covered in brake dust that just wont come off!

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They all piss oil out the cap, you can put a brass fitting in the top of the cap and attach a pipe for it to spill out onto the floor instead of all over your engine bay. The pumps on them are normally always dodgy, put some Wynn's PAS stop leak treatment in or Slick 50 power steering fluid and...

My Williams 1 Currently hate the site of it, haven't driven it since September last year.

Nice one ill try a jump lead off the motor to the shell then.

Earth strap in the engine bay or inside the car?

I've got three keys but two don't seem to work but that could just be coincidence. No I didn't charge it but was working fine in the car that it was in. Will give it a decent charge though and try again. Thinking it could just have its knickers in a twist over unlocking the car via the door...

Hmm could just be the battery then but I've had a good search on the forum and UCH failure also looks like a possibility which is £££

Cup is around 3 turns lock to lock so 4 turns sounds a lot.

Just went to start my 172 cup after sitting for 2 weeks and the first thing is the remote locking had stopped working. So initial thoughts was dead battery, hooked it up my other 172 and jumped it. Took a few goes to get it started as it would crank and then just stop? Car was cranking at normal...

They need to be bonded really if they are rears, any windscreen place or bodyshop will be able to do this.

Im wondering if Quaife and the likes might actually be able to do a decent quick rack kit for the twingo casing? seemed unsuccesful on the DCi casing.