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Right guys, ive bought the Twingo rack off Cup-Phil. Im going to get mounting tabs on the back of the rack machined by a couple of degrees to change the mounting angle of the rack to get the pinion more centred in the bulkhead, I will then add angled shims to the front to ensure it is bolted on...

Hi Guys, Been driving my newly acquired 172 cup around for the last couple of weeks and it seems to be quite flat around the 2000rpm mark, more noticeable in 4th and 5th gear. Its fine everywhere else in the rev range, idles fine and no other running problems. My other 172 has an 98RON map on...

You will have to grind out the deformed bits of the spline to get it off. This is why you cant by joints etc for clio's as the joints are effectively not replaceable. Have fun, id suggest buying a new shaft and getting a good second hand one. the only other way i can think of doing it is to take...

Yeah there is a clip on the top, you need to pull it backwards towards the dash to unclip it. Can be quite a b**ch to detach it though, i just man handled mine out in the end lol.

Tbh if i had to do the brake lines again id just do them in solid anyway, much neater and harder pedal than braided lines.

I didnt change from hard lines, my car is a cup racer so had braided from new.

I didnt use a converter as my car has braided lines, i just bought another m12 banjo and fitted it to my line. You might need to make a new line up or if your careful cut the union off your current line fit and m12 union and re-flare.

Finer thread is also more resistant to shearing as well. But with a good quality stud that isn't really a worry.

If you need a guide then i probably wouldnt attempt it yourself. But you need to remove the reservoir, unbolt all the unions from the MC, undo the first 2 bolts on the servo and remove vacum pipe retaining bracket, undo the remaining 2 bolts and remove the MC. Refit in reverse order.

Yeah straight from Renault then has to be programmes once its fitted.

I had it programmed at my local Renault Dealer. As suggested you could send your current one for BBA Reman and they will fix it if repairable for £100 with a lifetime warranty. I sent mine there but unfortunately mine was not repairable.

I paid £224 for a brandnew UCH from Renault and fitted it myself then paid £36 to have it programmed. So £260 all in, probably the easiest most reliable way to do it. Its really not hard to change, only need a 13mm spanner and a t20 torx bit to unbolt it from the car.

I prefer the standard seats tbh, have Recaro's in my 172 cup and the standard seats are much more comfortable/supportive.

The Cup racer manual cambelt procedure does not specify slackening of the cam pulleys. I have all 3 of the Renault timing tools and timed my cup racer motor up as per Fred, the timing was correct as you would expect. But last night I did the cambelt on my 172 cup and decided to see if it could...

Look very closely for any surface cracking, if there is get it changed. The belt one my car was 5 years old but had only covered 10k so still looked pretty new, but when looking up close it had surface cracking so i decided to change it.

Fuchs Pro S 5w40 from Opie oils

Well the only thing i have changed on my car is the flywheel, it already had a paddle clutch fitted and thats when it started becoming jerky. Doesnt make any difference to me as its on my rally car, but not sure id want to live with it every day.

Tbh mate its not even that bitey compared to most paddle clutches. Pretty well mannered, could live with it in a road car.

Sprung Helix paddle, drives no different to a standard clutch once it is engaged.

You dont want to uprate the rear pads unless you want to go pirouetting down the road under heavy braking lol!

My billet one has the standard timing marks on it? I wouldn't put one in a road car tbh, makes it terribly jerky at low speed.

Id honestly just let them rub through, Ive have on my Williams and my 172 and it will look far neater than if you ever took a cutting impliment to them. Is it rubbing in a straight line or just when turning? if its the later you are probably catching the bumper/headlight brackets and not the arches.

What a lot of people seem to forget is the quoted 172 PS from Renault would have been with the engine on a Dyno with more than likely no alternator or auxilary parts running off the crank. Alternator, PAS & Aircon pumps all sap power from the engine. So a 172 cup will effectivley show more power...

Yeah i think the alloy they use is just too soft, heard a few other people have had issues with them. Same as the Demon Tweeks ones as they are the same spacers. Im of the opposite opinion, I would say extended bolts/studs are safer if they are of good quality and are high tensile. The stud...

Avoid the JJC ones, they are soft as s**t and will have your steering wobling in no time. Have them on my car, need to change for some FK's or H&R's.

Not a lot point in rolling them, the tyres will wear through them eventually giving perfect clearance.

Mine vibrated like mad. They were fitted correctly leaving the bolts loose, starting the car to let the engine sit where it wants and the bolts tightened up. I couldnt be dealing with the constant vibrations from the dashboard, fitted the standard mounts back in and its so much nicer. You can...

Possibly, not sure whether the UCH has control over those aspects as the Airbags, and ABS both have there own ECU?

Hi, Need to replace the UCH module on my 172 Cup. Im looking at getting a second hand UCH kit from a Clio breakers (ECU, UCH, Coder ring etc): - Can I use the UCH from and normal 172 or does it have to be from a Cup? - The kits are supplied with all the keys and locks etc, but is it possible to...

Not sure if thats the UCH tbh but if it is BBA Reman can repair them with a life time warranty on them after repair. I sent mine to them but unfortunately it was to far gone for them to repair. So the only option is new from Renault or Second hand kit from a breaker.