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It's a proper serial interface, my laptop will speak with the ECU no problem. Have loaded new maps, amended settings etc. it's the ECU speaking to the Dash 2 through an interface I'm having trouble with. I've changed the COM port settings as stated by Race Tech and uploaded there sts config file...
Hi Guys,
Another Omex question, trying to get my Dash2 working with my Omex 600 ECU and the Race-technology interface. I have set the COM port ON as stated in the race technology manual. I have loaded the .STS file that Race Technology sent me but the Display and ECU still dont seem to be...
Hi,
Could someone tell me what the torque settings are for ARP Rod bolts on an F4R? is it just a case of torque them up by a set amount and that's it or do you need to then torque them by say 180 degrees?
Cheers,
Mike
Hi,
Does anyone know where to look to find what firmware version you have installed on an Omex 600? need to check mine is correct to work with my Race Tech interface.
Cheers
Mike.
That gear definitely looks faulty to me, bit weird that literally the whole tooth has come off. I was going to get my box rebuilt as a matter of caution but I'm starting to think if it ain't broke don't fix it. It all works fine at the moment, so why touch it..
Well ive not had to do it yet as I fitted the new billet flywheel with this clutch, but after 6-7 stages of me resting my foot on the clutch pedal and it slipping a few times the flywheel could do with a resurface by the looks of it. Still need to check it for flatness, if its still flat i might...
You could try getting a rubber mallet and lightly beating the seal flat against the door. They aren't that hard to replace but you need to remove the window make it easier otherwise you risk kinking the seal putting it in.
Isn't the 116 top end CWP not the one me and Ian have anyway? all depends on what your limiter is sat at but on standard cup limiter works out around 118mph. Pretty sure the only other lower final drive available was one for around 105mph top speed.
That what I'm trying to avoid though really, I've had the engine in out of this thing so many times I've lost count. I need to take the engine out to do the cam belt and fit rod bolts (this motor was fitted mid rally). So really the clutch I put in needs to last a good year or two; I only do 1...
At the moment I am using a helix 4 plate paddle clutch on my rally car, I need a new drive plate and pressure plate which is going to cost £460. £460 I would rather not spend; as I've spent enough already this year. I have a brand new Renault clutch sat here that I bought for my road car that I...
Yeah that's what I plan to do anyway, just thought it would be easier if I had the right base voltage then I know its within the correct operating range. Cheers.
Well this got out of hand..
We all have our own opinions at the end of the day, ive never said either is actually stronger. The Twingo rack when applying common sense and some engineering knowledge "looks" to be more sturdy than the DCi rack but this may not be the case. Never the less if i was...
Only marginal material will need to be removed from the back of the mounting tabs as the mounting face its actually raised slightly around the bolt hole. This wont be needed once it has been bolted onto the car as the angle shim will spread the load of the bolt across the whole face of the...
At the end of the day the Twingo rack is proven in rallying on the Twingo R2 rally car, I dont see many Clio DCi's being rallied.. It may be as strong but im not taking the risk when i have something that is proven to be good.
It may not be, but it certainly looks more upto the job. The main thing for me is i wanted something with low mileage, most DCi racks have covered a lot of miles by now.
Its a bit rough, and has more resistance than the manual rack which is designed for this purpose. Why bodge something when you can do it properly i say.