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That's a copy of the R3 maxi evo (or so I'm told) so you'd get away with maxi Evo cams and the standard inlet..........

Seat mounts mate. They're the weld in tubes you can buy from demon tweeks etc.

No machining required for them mate. It's the catcams kit that needs the machining. Yeah they're €150 each.........Lol

Ah I see!

Ah right. Doesn't look like it on the pic so you've done a tidy job of that.

Where did you get the base manifold from out of interest?

I'm pretty sure you can buy a rebuild kit from Renault mate. It's about £450 to buy 3 of the gears though, so I'd suggest your sat down when they give you the price!

I prefer it with the wheel centres silver Neil. They certainly don't look the same colour as the body in the lower pic.

^^^^thats where I'm taking mine when it's built.

@Ph1 Tom is the best man to answer this as he's got the k-tec dth kit on his ph1. He's used some angled spacers to get more length on his as well now.

It's a lovely car Neil, but I find that the 996's are dating quite a lot now due to the headlight design. What hp is yours currently? And what hp will it be after you've fitted the inlet parts?

Ah right I see what your saying now! If you were building it to be reliable revving to 8k+ you'll definitely need solid lifters as a minimum mate and a set of 16 of these would resolve any issues you may come up againstThe setup your going to run will be safe to 8k and occasional 8k+ (It's the...

Yes totally agree with this wholeheartedly. The biggest question is, what is the end goal? What are you looking to achieve? The reality of it is none of us are building engines that are f1 spec. I've certainly not got the resources of cash flow to fund it! Lol! I'm not being a dick about it...

A yb cosworth inlet manifold and pulsar gtir inlet manifold are worth looking at as well as the ones you've listed above @Cupman29 and @Ph1 Tom . One has the trumpets inside (yb) and one has radiused inlets that are biased towards the air flow (pulsar). Both are used in boosted form, but work...

A performance boosted inlet and a performance n/a inlet are 2 completely different animals, so in turn the design will be different. It's worth keeping that in mind guys. Also, plenum volume I'd argue is just as important in the design

On back order from what I heard last. That may well have changed now though.

To run at 8.5k safely and reliably you need to run the catcams solid lifter kit mate. The standard top end won't stand it and you'll be throwing the finger rockers regularly and possibly even snapping them. If your serious @BIGASH has one of the kits for sale. They ain't cheap though!! If your...

I love the pink hoses!! Bright colours ftw!

Lol! Yeah you should find the axle drops like a stone with nothing supporting it as @incy-spider has said.

Here - http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=180853487230

Fuel in the tank won't cause it mate as the fuel tank is mounted under the rear seat base. I can't see the bushes being knackered in the rear beam causing it either tbh. Have you tried disconnecting the rear dampers where the bolt on at the rear beam, then jacking up each side? Have both...

Yeah try contacting Adam @Renault Wolverhampton. He should be able to sort you out fella. Just keep in mind that spinning the wheels and general abuse is what can attribute to killing the circlips mate.

Your better off buying the bolt in plate off ebay mate. It's a permanent fix then.

8k on the hardcut so it'll probably go to about 8200 by the time it's had time to think what's going on. Run the risk of the finger followers jumping off, but I'm not to worried by it tbh. My standard 172 f4r gets sent to 8k without any dramas! Lol! It's sustained and continuous high rpm that...

I'm going to be running with heat treated R3 maxi rods and arp rod bolts in mine - or in other words, standard Renault rods. They'll withstand a lot of abuse tbf. If it's a full on race engine you want arrows or sainz rods.

Yeah it's the motion ratio mate. They're about 1.7:1 on the rear beam when I calculated it. So to put that into some sort of perspective a 250lb rear spring in the original position is only a 167lb spring by the time the wheel sees it. Make sense? The fronts are 1:1 so a 450lb spring is exactly...

You can leave them rubber bits out, it'll be fine mate. If anything you'll hear a few dings and dongs as the rear springs move, but it's nothing to worry about. Btw, 6mm thickness equates to around 10-12mm at the wheel arch mate. It's all about the spring location so I won't bother you with the...

Ah right I see. Mines on the weld in seat tubes and I can just sneak the battery underneath. The tubes stop it going the rest of the way.

Does the battery fit underneath the passenger seat or directly behind it?

Are your seats on the standard rails? Have a measure up to see if a battery will actually fit underneath would be my advice. Mine is pretty damn close!! I'm on the welded in seat tubes though.