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As Colin Chapman said, "simplify, then add lightness"! Best way to improve performance.
Oh? I've definitely replied to all your pm's mate, so not sure what's happened there. In answer to your question, nope not yet!! Issues along the way have fucked the job up atm. Frustrating.
I've personally not got fg doors as it gets used on the road. I've got x door bars as well, so in theory I should be safe, but not entirely sure I'd want that element of risk. Having spoke to a guy doing crash tests at Mira, I may go down this route as even at 20mph a lamppost in a side on...
Yeah it's quite a significant saving tbh. The rear glass (heated screen) weighs about 7kgs vs 2.5kgs of the polycarb! The rear screen is also the most expensive to replace. There was one for sale a few weeks ago and I don't think it sold. He wanted £120 I think.
I can't comment on the weight of the sliders, but unless you've got some sort of scoop to draw the air in they don't work as well as you'd ideally like them to. I weighed my glass vs polycarbs and iirc it was 2 polycarb fronts/qtrs were equal to the weight of one piece of glass.
It's like sitting in a greenhouse mate in all honesty. You need a roof vent or some form of window scoop to get enough cool air in the car on a hot day. Mine are p4p ones as well so fully thermoformed.
Yes mate if you can reduce the toe in on the n/s and reduce the toe out on the o/s you'll get some good results. It will still try and bring the back end round, but not as bad as if you went full toe out. I've ran mine with around 15-20 minutes of toe out on the rear and you look like a drifting...
Ah ok. It's just a lad I know mate. Properly sorted properly fast car he's got tbf. Not sure when he will appear, but you'll know about it when he does! Lol! There's gonna be some f4r's out there needing a few more ponys!
Re your wheelspin, I know james said he always suffered badly off the...
Saxo and 205 were impressive! Both seemed to have good speed! Was there a 280hp 306 there this weekend? If not, he's coming! ;)
Car looked to be doing well though Russ.
Depends on what you want the car to do mate really. I'd try and shim the toe in on the n/s/r to match the toe out on the o/s/r personally as it'll help the car turn in faster. Downside is that it'll make it livelier at the back end so you'll need to be on the ball. I'd be tempted to put some...
I reckon mine would give me about 5-6 degrees mate! When you take into account the 5mm per wheel extra you've got from the hubs and the 10mm I've got from my set, achieving that much camber should be easy. Yours are maybe done different to mine then and didn't have such a large slot. Strange!
Is the sealant red mikeh? If it is then no I doubt it's been rebuilt as they came from Renault sealed with loctite 518. If it's any other colour then I'd almost definitely say it's been apart at some point.
Fitting the shims to the rears is simple mate. Caliper off, disc/hub assembly off, then 4 torq head bolts to undo and the stub axle is off. Fit the shims and rebuild in reverse order to what I've written previously.
God knows where I got it from then that you'd reprogrammed it oli! Lol! With regards the track car and mot issue it's actually quite a simple one. IF the car has been modified for track use there has been a directive issued by VOSA that basically says test it as presented. It also states that...
Apologies my post was misleading. I was meaning leave it unplugged after you've swapped to the cup setup, so this would obviously not knock the brake bias to 50/50. To overcome the dashlight issue is simple - fold some black tape in half, strip the clocks and slide it under the fascia. If you...
Ah ok! I thought they'd done it on cubs car tbh! May be a case of leave the abs pump unplugged then tbh as it can't have any effect on the braking system.
To put it simply mate, there isn't a way. I did a lot of research into all sorts of ways, but to get the strength and reliability was the major stalling point unfortunately.