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yeah mines a hero3. I thought they did them for the 2 tbh. Your only option after that is to drill the side of the casing if you can't find a frame mount.
They're set soft as the ring is quite a bumpy circuit to race on. Anywhere between 450-550 should work well for you, but it all comes down to the damping rates. You'd need good rebound settings.
Get a gopro frame mount pete. They're obviously not waterproof so indoor use only, but you can plug a power supply into the side of it. That's what I do with mine. Stops any noise issues you sometimes get off the waterproof case as well.
I thought the issue with the ktec dth kit is that you can't run much longer trumpets due to the angle the bodies come off the cylinder head? Could be wrong though, but I'm sure I read it on here somewhere. I'm sure it was an issue with the air filter touching the bonnet. I'll have a search and...
AdDaMan It's all personal preference mate tbh. As a base guideline I'd go for 2.5- camber up front and around 5-10 minutes toe out. You can't do anything to the rear without shims. After that you'll have to fine time it to suit your style/tyres/tyre temps etc etc etc. There's no hard and fast...
No mate the only Grp n bits on my car is the ecu and cam timing! The suspension is kw v2 but that's going to be upgraded to sportline 2's in the near future hopefully. I can only dream of running an ohlins setup!
You need to set your car to the ride height you want and take a quick visual check at the angle of the steering arms. That'll give you a good idea of if they need much correction. The aim of development is to break the 8min 15 btg time at the 'ring. When that happens I'll probably pack it all...
That's interesting then as I'm sure they declined when it was mentioned about the use of the car as they said they prefer to stick with rally stuff. What did your set cost out of interest? If you don't mind me asking of course.
Thanks. It's definitely had a lot of development time mate to get to where it's at now.
The steering arms have been dropped in accordance to the amount of correction used on the roll centre. I'll be using a different length extender pin and bump steer corrector on my set for next year. Mainly...
Mines just the original hubs but machined and custom billet uniball holders (I'm sure you'll have seen the group buy) as I wanted to be able to retain the flexibility you get from sticking with the original hubs. You'll find you can run less camber up front with the corrected roll centre as...
Are the reigers that you have 3 way adjustable just out of interest? It's a shame they're not interested in doing stuff for track work as well. I'd have snapped a set up if they did!
I'll have a look and see if I can find everything. I'm excellent at putting stuff in a safe place, then totally forgetting where that is when it's needed! Lol!
Do you run cup racer suspension up front then with the corrected roll centres? Correcting that was one of the biggest improvements I...
Yeah the beams run different stub axle thicknesses, but are essentially the se if you swap them over. Also worth noting the 182 has a thicker rear arb in the beam, but it's nothing to worry about if you can only find a 172 beam.
I'd be very tempted to up the rate of your fronts Sam. Mine has 330lb fronts (kw v2's) and they're too soft so the front falls over itself a bit really. Something like a 400-450 front and a 500-550 rear would be what I'd try.
yes mate using a ratio of 1.7:1 and about 370 if you go 2:1, so a...
How do you find the handling with 20mm spacers on? I'm assuming they're on the front as well? I hated mine with with 20mm hubcentrics fitted up front. Widened to track by using a custom uniball holder in the end and found it much better. Just didn't feel right on spacers.
^^^^Nice! I bet that shifts along nicely!
For me it came down to lapping the 'ring and never feeling like I was getting the best from myself or the car. Swapped to a different car (the cup) and the experience was night and day different. It's eventually led me on to an 8:31btg on a tf day. More...
That was the main reason why the roll centre/bump steer hubs came about. Couldn't get the car doing what I wanted it to do, so that was the first thing on the hit list.
You need to get the tracking checked first before you go adjusting the camber mate. It's the tracking that's scrubbing your tyres NOT the camber. Aim for about 5 minutes toe out on the front. That's what I set a lot of standard cliosports up to and they don't wear tyres bad at all.
You'd be better off with eibach/Cooksport springs on oe dampers over a cheap set of coilovers. This type of cars strong point is its handling. Don't ruin it with cheap tat. All imo of course, but buy cheap, but twice.