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mine did 157 ps (decatted milltek, rs tuner map and BMC intake) so you have to be anything but sad with those figures! I guess as many said the thing that matters is how the car goes and mine manages to pull from a R27 which did 181 ps on the same rollers. So you have to know how other cars did...
so if you put 200kilos in the trunk and then start the car and the lights come on you should see the beams drop down because of the car being lower on the back right?
Just listen to these guys and have your timing checked even if the car seems ok! Why not have maybe 5-10 bhp more and a 100% working engine?
Read this http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?510521-cambelt-problems-(local-garages) and you'll know why it's crucial to do it the PROPER WAY
Oh...
I went against a modded seat altea, 2.0 diesel (140 bhp std) bigger turbo, exhaust and remap. He got 185 bhp at the fly and 167 at the wheels. With these numbers i would expect for him to be well ahead but on the road he's maybe one car ahead.
I'll probably go for a run with the 182 which came...
A friend in his 197 R27 just went today to the same dyno and he came up with 181 at the fly and 157 at the wheels, 197nm of torque- which is in the normal figures these cars get
His only mod is a KN Apollo ik, apart from that stock everywhere
Problem is that I'm ahead of him by a car's length on...
Well I'm abot to get my second cambelt done these days, so I guesss in time the timing could go out. As I said the first time the belts were done at 38k to be more accurate but 5 years passed so maybe yeah, the timing may be slightly out who knows.
One more question though, I heard some rumours...
Hi guys,
Just went today for my first dyno test ever and the numbers came out pretty low:
Car is a 182 with the following power mods:
Milltek cat back with decat pipe
fastchip rs tuner remap
BMC CDA induction with silicone elbow
The IK setup is as bellow:
So it came out with 157 ps at the...
I was also thinking of doing them myself (not being able to get them done at k-tec or others since I'm not from the UK) and was curious what tools I'll be needing and how much will they cost.
thanks!
for those who like fresh alpine tarmac:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=WyF2QEUzmUE
and the top gear featured transfagarasan:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwYf4NWYLjM
both are within 120 miles away from each other, plenty of nice places to stay, cheap also
you have some 30 mm spacers on the front I guess.. that could well cause the rubbing, just imagine if the wheel is turned the spacer actually gets it closer to the arch, I'm dealing with this stuff myself and I'm not even on spacers, just 16" ultras (et37)
otherwise it looks great :)
some very nice custom parts in there! any chance you could sell copies of the lower arm files? :D
where did you get that clutch and how much was it?
really awesome build, congratulations!
I have this clutch since 2009, covered about 25-30k with it so far
I'm curious how they generally feel, mine is stiffer than standard, still creaks (will change the clutch cable soon and see if that will help) and aparrently has a shorter travel than the original- or my pedal assembly is messed...
I don't get it, I know that on a non cup car there will be a little more camber due to the bolt spacing being shorter but nearly three degrees negative that's insane!
did you solved the problem mate?
I'd like to see a pic with the mounts assembled to the struts(if you have one). I also have gaz coilies but k-tec solid mounts and thinking of going to ast mounts in the future
no, you don't have to loosen that. It's only for setting the dampers harder or softer, depending on your preferences, nothing to do with the dissasembly of the strut.
Looks to me that you are in the same difficulty that I was. I'd get myself some kind of a claw puller to get the top mount off...