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finally the weather got better so went the other day and took some pics http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z273/rippttor/jhl.jpg http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z273/rippttor/ghjf.jpg http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z273/rippttor/fjg.jpg...

don't think changing 5th only would help. I think aerodynamics is a bigger factor at above 120

we'll see. couldn't tell in one day if the mpg are better

Changed today these two, here are the part numbers if anyone's interested: thermostat: 8200 772 985 CTS: 8200 561 449 thermostat gasket: 8200 267 272 the new thermostat came with a new gasket (wish renault knew that before advising to buy it! :mad: )

I'm running with motul 5w 40 right now, but ran out of what I had left in the 2L metal canister so now if I were to top up with some Elf 5w 40 would it be ok? oil level is right half way between min and max on the dipstick and service is due to be done in about 1,2k miles

as another confirmation, this ^ is correct P.S: assuming ph1 172 has the same subframe/hubs/wishbones as the ph2 172 looks like it has wider track? that's weird

not that I'm a rs fan but the clio's engine bay looks better! great location and photos ;)

anyway isn't the civic in the megane/GTI/focus ST class? would be normal for it to be faster than a clio, and the fact that it's not that much faster only proves that the clio is a good car get some sportlines, an rs tuner remap and an exhaust- basic cheap mods- and I'm sure you'll enjoy it :)

also race tyres in 17" diameter have quite a sidewall on them, so the overall diameter wold be HUGE. race tyres don't come in silly low profiles as said, 195/50 track day tyres and you're off ;)

anyone knows the part numbers on these? wanna buy them from renault sorry for not mentioning in the 1st post

mine has a slight MPG problem. it revs to 7250 though, but the temp gauge on the dash keeps moving from just under the middle and back to the middle again (even after 1 hour of normal driving) what should I look for at first? (lambda will be changed in the future) are these symthoms likely...

http://k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2386&appid=3 if they do 18" I'm pretty sure they do 17 also

I think so. but I wouldn't go higher than 16 on a clio

google search this: "clio rs 172 phase 1" -15" silver oz f1 wheels "clio rs 172 phase 2" -16" 5 spokes silver renault wheels "clio rs 172 cup" -16" speedline turini silver wheels "clio rs 182" -...

my bet is 15x6". the megane MKII uses 15x6,5" steel rims (poverty spec equipment level) and 195/65 r15 tyres so I'd say the clio has a 6" rim no clue about the ET though. closer to 45 at a guess

the guy that fitted mine had cut the OE system. a lot easier, took him 1 hour to get the milltek fitted (even less if you remove the time spent to undo the rusted bolts etc)

can you give a hint? I'm quite far from your ramp tbh :D i'm getting some occasional full lock knock (am running k-tec top mounts, new wishbones, poly bushes, new shocks etc) and who knows I may have a faulty driveshaft thx!

how long it took for the creak to come back?

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194769- tyre in this link is on my spare wheel (I bought the car like that) and indeed it says "pilot exalto" on it. it may be the first exalto model http://www.2dayparts.com/michelin-pi...0r-14-82h-rrb ^ this one is different though - it has 4...

hope it won't sit awkward when cold then :)) thx!

the milltek looks like this: http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z273/rippttor/Photo0069.jpg P.S:can't upload photo, keep getting this message : Exceeds your quota by 69.3 KB. <a href="misc.php?do=attachments" target="_blank">Click here to view your attachments</a> pic is not larger than it...

bump on this thread for another one: I've finally managed to have my tail pipes sit proper in the bumper cuts but when the exhaust gets hot the left tip goes off center. this is right after doing the 2,5" cat mod. maybe the previous joint helped the exhaust to move a bit when expanded from...

battery is ok, changed it 2 years ago. up and down revving only happens when pressing the brake pedal 2-3 times when in neutral. it's like pressing both brake and accel pedal at once. not having a messy idle to be clear. first lambda will be changed soon though as I'm having some mpg issues

hammerite is what you need. many used this and it's great quality paint. wire brush on the calipers, degreaser, one coat of paint, 2 hours later the second coat, 4 hours later you're done

as I can remember a good and close to std setup would be: front toe: 1mm out rear: 1mm in camber: ~.30 negative on the front ~ 1,4-1,5 negative rear you could go up to 1,5 neg in the front without excessive wear (using camber bolts or adjustable top mounts like the AST ones) hope that helps

v12 is a good all rounder at a good price (something like the PE2) rs-2 is more track focused, a softer compound, stiffer sidewalls, orientated towards dry grip. increased wear rate obviously

^ if you like smth more street like and prefer the low profile tyre look or this ^ if you're planing some track days and want cheap tyres I'd have both tbh, ultras with summer tyres and street driving and 2118's for winter tyres and trackdays

any place they stock the rs-2 these days?

back on this problem again.. It looks like the revvin thing is not entirely gone as I thought. It still does it when the engine is cold and while on the move (standing still in neutral with engine on and pressing the brake pedal nothing happens). let's say driving at 30 mph in 3rd, then going in...

don't really wanna leave the rest inside. one of mine snapped inside (hence the removal of my cover) and couldn't get the damn thing out (tried to drill through what was left of it but no success)