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^I can confirm that ;)

only if you have a truck trial 8x8 TATRA maybe :D as those always seem to be positive

LOL you learn as you go on no problem ;) remember 1,5 degrees means 1 degree and 30 minutes as this can be confusing to some people

at 1,5 degrees being positive or negative it's easy to notice when looking from the front straight at the wheels. The cheap K-tec coilies have built in camber adjustment, just go to someone who knows what he's doing and get the tracking done like tony earlier said, 1,5 negative and 1mm toe out...

yeah it does! 1,5 positive is insanely wrong! if you got camber bolts you can correct this what coilies are you running? quite lazy to go back couple of pages :D

yes, every time you alter the ride height you'll have to do the tracking. how come you're 1.5 deg positive?? you're running camber bolts?

I'd do the same tbh. the 182 looks good with that tyre size. or maybe go to 15" like many did and run 195/50 tyres, they will be a little smaller but not too much. For me though, 16" is the best compromise between looks/practicality/performance so I'm keeping them. If you're planning to do...

anyway I've seen loads of sports claiming they're about 60mm lower, still don't know how they achieve that!

or try fixing your old one http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?537299-Washer-jets-issues-fix-guide

try this and let us know how did it worked for you http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?537299-Washer-jets-issues-fix-guide

Are you sure that is 60 mm lower on the front? Mine rubs on the wheel arches and it's 25 mm lower (in the front) on gaz coilies. I wouldn't go lower than 40 mm in the front as there will be a lot of stress on the drive shafts I'm running 1,5 degree negative on the front (camber bolts) and 1mm...

80% of occasions the CC works fine but sometimes it's reversing the controls of the buttons. For example if I press "R" the speed increases or if press "+" the cruise control disengages, or any other combinations like those mentioned Has this ever happened to anyone as I tried to do a search...

any expert opinion on this? I'm not leaving mine to idle unless there's a thick layer of ice on the screen and need the heat to get it off so leave it idle for 1 min or not?

can you provide the part numbers for these two? thx!

+1

it's ok, bites a bit harder than the std unit but it's easy to get used to

595 rs-r

I know the majority says so, didn't test them myself though

pilot sport 3 are better than exalto 2's for sure, so go with them

the cup have et 38 but unfortunately I don't know the part number

they were on my shopping list anyway but now I'm even more convinced ;) thx!

you could also have a bent rod, I had this on my firs set of std shocks. front left side had about 1 degree negative because of that. camber bolts won't tilt the shock that much

were the wheels turned or straight when you took the pic?

how are the federals going? very tempted on these too

^because the damper rod is tilted, it's normal

After some days of tiny adjustments to my gaz kit I decided to share my thoughts on what I found out. First of all I fitted the suspension myself, took me an entire day to get the std one out and fit the coilies, so a good advice would be to have some buddy ready to give a hand. I also took...

you will stress the driveshafts, I wouldn't recommend it for a car that will be driven

show some pics mate

not that low I'm afraid. After fitting my GAZ coilovers I have discovered that even if lowering say 30 mm you'll be left with very little suspension trevel (about 20 mm max travel). if you want to go lower than that you'll have to shorten the bump stops, at least that's how I did it and I'm not...

of course it's relevant! that way I can see the available travel, then when back on the ground I can determine the amount of travel left ;) Any way, I emailed GAZ and they advised to cut in half the bump stops. As the car is about 25 mm lower than std on the front atm I could look under the arch...