Search results

not very really, off to a bbq about mid day, but get here early enough and I will help you out pal. I have pm'd you my number. Give me a call whenever.

could be, could be a dicky abs pump. Its up to you pal, the discs are sat here not doing anything. Like I said, you would have to get them very hot to warp them, and I would have thought your pads would have given up before the discs did. Might be worth a trip to a garage with the rollers...

GSF in Norwich pal. Your more than welcome to come and fit them, have a drive and see what happens. If it doesn't clear it up, then swap them back, at least you will know. I have seen you drive round Snetterton, and know you don't hang about, but it is rather hard to warp discs, you would...

Lol I was only joking, but I don't need them yet. They cost me £37 each from GSF about 5 weeks ago.I you want to collect them £60 will do the trick pal

treat it as a nice country road, don't time yourself and always keep one eye in your mirrors. You will be fine pal, have fun.

Brembo HC's too pal. Have you got another set of pads just to try? When we were at Snetterton the other month I glazed my pads, that gives a very similar feel. Might be worth just trying some new pads.

Yeah I see what you mean, thats why I asked for the advice on the spring rating so they match up. They won't just work well with one specific spring rate. If Kev can get them working well with a higher spring rate then ideal, saves spending more cash on suspension when he already has a great set...

I have sportlines and cant complain, might upgrade to pro's. Let me know how you get on with them.

I have some new ones you can buy off of me ;) What discs are you running at the mo Danny?

No idea mate, just thought that with the juddering and bad idleing it might be that. MAP sensor is another good one though, you could probably get one of those from a scrap yard and slave it in.

Have a drive in your car and have a look at the rev counter, iirc the dephaser pulley stops working around the 1800-2100rpm mark. If the sound deisappears around or after then, then that could be your problem. I would imagine the sound may travel a little as its all of the bits are connected.

Christ on a bike! No matter where you go there is always someone from Yorkshire ready to make a fool of us. ;) If you are struggling to get a wheel off you probably shouldn't be doing the job in the first place.

Do you just get the noise at low revs? Or does it disappear the higher you rev it?

The dampers are upgraded, he just needs some stiff springs that will work well with the Koni dampers. Coilovers are not the be all and end all of suspension, you can get just as good setup buying products that are matched, or work well together. Stiffer springs will make the car harder, but...

Ah right. We will have a little phone call and see then. Cheers pal

He says that the Koni ones and the Eibach ones that he tried just aren't stiff enough for him. I'm guessing that Faulkner will just make any spring rate you ask for.

Right, have a mate of mine wanting some uber stiff springs. He is currently running Eibach Prolines and would prefere something stiffer. Does anybody know a rough spring rate of the Prolines (Eibach won't tell us)? Any recommendations on some stiffer springs, I was think he could get some...

How come fred?

Might be worth changing the fuel filter too.

You won't go far wrong with the Koni's pal, I love mine.

coilover sheep indeed ;)

Yes definately, I think they are great. I like the fact that I can adjust them for track and normal road use. Well worth the money IMO

I wouldn't have thought tracking would cause the wheel to wobble, it would just pull to one side. A screwed trackrod end might though. Have you had a look at the fixing points of your wishbones?

treat the car and buy it some new fluid, wont cost much and if it doesnt work, its a fault you can cross off of the list. its probably due one anyway.

if you read the thread it tell you why. the ecu stores the fault and looks at it every so often, its every 6 weeks or so, but only for a day or so. it costs £15, its cheaper than having it plugged in and erased and a lot less annoying than having the light on all the time.

Yeah well owrth doing pal, it may never have been changed. It's easy really, buy yourself some new fluid, dot 4 should do you. There is a guide on how to do it if you have a quick search. The guide may be for a 1*2 but the principal is the same, just keep pumping fluid through and make sure...

The light will come on eventually, I have a couple of mates with 1*2's and they all did the same, I'm the only one that put it in a sleeve and mine is fine. Infact mine came on on Sunday, drove it twice before it went out, I wont see that light for another 6 weeks of so.

If you read the whole thread you would find out!

for sale section, have a search there is always someone selling one, having had their car throttle bodied or super charged etc.

Might be worth getting your head in the footwell and having a look. Could be something obstructing the pedal. Failing that, have the wheel off, caliper off and have a good look at the pads. If pads look ok, I would give the caliper a press out with it off of the disc, see if it comes out ok...