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Trader said everything checked out fine apart from the rack, which was replaced with genuine renault part but didn't cure the fault. They refused the opportunity to have another look. Sent from my ZTE-BLADE using Tapatalk

i wish it was only torque steer :(

sometimes it pulls left, sometimes right, even worse when braking to a stop on uneven roads. everything has been changed.

gearbox with a little play i can live with. the handling problem is the thing that pisses me off.

i'll be using it for a while yet- we need to replace the wifes people carrier first, then worry about mine. i don't even know if it will be this side of christmas before i replace or break it!

i would consider breaking it, but i'd have to get a replacement first if i went that route. how much do people tend to get when they break one of these? plenty of nearly new steering and suspension parts... :)

Until this morning I was willing to persevere with my Clio and get it fixed up and perfect no matter what it cost, but having been out there this morning I've suddenly lost interest. I missed a gear change the other day and its loosened something inside the gearbox. Its only a little play and...

My apologies henk, its easy to misunderstand the tone of an email Sent from my ZTE-BLADE using Tapatalk

oh and it's alot worse when braking to a stop on uneven road, steering wheel will pull 45 degrees to the left or 45 degrees to the right.

when i change a part and tighten it all back up, it feels nice and solid and i can go over small (or medium) bumps and the car soaks it up and i don't feel it through the steering wheel. after a few miles, it gradually starts to get crap until i can feel every tiny bump through the steering...

is there anything else that would need preload? can't seem to get to grips with the fact my steerings nice and tight after working on it, but then goes crap. happened when i did top mounts, shocks, and wishbones and three different times. fine, then pants.

thanks, i wasn't sure about access but i might drop them onto some bricks or something so it keeps the car in the air.

i never did any of that how would you tighten one up? for example in the case of the wishbone would you drop it with bolts nipped up and then tighten, or use a trolley jack under the hub to take the weight?

ah, i picked up on "at the back"! u talking about the two things at the top in this pic? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-MK2-1998-2006-SUB-FRAME-Wishbone-bar-/180594153178?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a0c4016da#ht_656wt_1139

yeah they said mine didn't put out enough effort on one side. i know they shouldn't anyway, but difficult to argue when one side reads 40 and one side reads 150!

something somebody said... i've got a steering issue on my car that goes away whenever you work on it (ie tighten strut bolts, fit new top mounts) but returns after about 10 miles or so. before you tighten anything in this area should you preload the car first?

anything on here?

not always. i had brake imbalance on the rear on mine and it was the same after replacing one of the calipers. strongly suspect it's the bias valve that's corroded internally.

yup, if it's buggered it does.

henk wasn't interested, just told me to stick it in renault for a service.

i've not heard back from cotball. could anybody else make these?

somebody else mentioned driveshaft. my car's not lowered but it does seem to have had this issue ever since the box was changed 8 months ago, which would obviously involve playing with the driveshafts.

from my other thread: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?586854-Harder-to-steer-left-than-right-( i fitted new top mounts and they were as bad as the ones i took off, so i've put some solid top mounts from pure motorsport on there and it's a little better, but it's still got the...

i've got two threads on the go, so if you have anything new can you post it in this one: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?570923-Unstable-Handling cheers

with regards to firing up it was fine before the rs-t. it was fine after for the half a tank that i used 95 ron, then when i filled up with 98 ron the problem started. i do have a fault code for the second lambda sensor but people tell me it doesn't do anything. i'll mail henk

you're supposed to take the bait so i don't have to try and explain myself while digging a hole

you're right, i don't know much about ignition timing, stoich, differences between ron and mon, etc, but can i assume that as you haven't offered anything constructive that you don't know either? :rasp:

i got tired of v power so i've filled it up with sainsburys 95 ron and it runs much better, it doesn't feel as bogged down as it did with the 98 ron. i've still got that starting issue that came into play after filling up with 98 ron. when you start, it turns over about 5 or 6 times than nearly...

i'm interested in the "stiff shift" (fnarr fnarr) the current gear stick is already a bit of a reach, shortening it may not be for me. perhaps just making the balljoint itself a bit more solid is the way forward.