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Yeah you're right, the 2118's are rally wheels. I wouldn't say these are especially light, I've not got anything to weigh them with though.

I got them from www.alloywheels.com - I actually ordered the silver ones but they phoned up and said they'd take three to five days but they had one set of the black ones on the shelf so would I like those for the same price. Wasn't really fussed about the colour, just wanted some decent wheels...

Oooh, sorry, but the original halogens every time for me. As long as you like them that's the main thing though, looks a tidy install.

That's more than I'm doing ;) I'm leaving the engine and dogbone mounts. These beauties arrived yesterday, just wanted a decent set of cheap used wheels for the track but ended up picking these up brand new for £275. ET 35 so I might look into some spacers.

Definitely go that route IMO. They're probably not aware it's so cheap and easy to replace the ecu.

Interesting, I was thinking about the track rod ends but hadn't considered the inner track rods. Checking a bit further it seems I really should have :) Steering rack bushes are cheap and have probably never been done. Looks like I'm ordering a few more new bits. ARB is already on, balljoints...

I'm going to leave the rear camber. I'll give the car -2 degrees negative camber at the front and see how I go. I'm changing too much in one go in terms of suspension and tyres to expect to hit the sweet spot first time out. The suspension refresh and tyres will change the way she drives...

What have you replaced so far? Any signs of tracking or arcing on the HT leads? How old are the plugs? How old is the coil?

Mine's standard at the moment but once it's on the CookSports am I right in thinking that will take the camber a little more negative? I'm in two minds about whether to put the rear camber plates on or not, they'd probably take it to something in the region of -2 to -2.5 negative rear camber...

No, it will fail if the seats are there without the belts.

Just been doing a load of readings about geo setup, talk about a dark art! I think I'm going to go for normal road toe settings but add some extra negative camber, use the 1 degree plates on the back to get close to 2.5 and set the front to 2.5. Anyone got any comments on that? Was quite...

Thanks for that, I had a look at the ones I bought and I can see what you mean. The balljoint is definitely not in a straight line with the wishbone, it's at an slight angle so the mounting point will effectively be pushed forward. The wishbones were £123 including delivery from Renault Parts...

I got the wishbones from Renault, part numbers 8200257956 and 8200257957. How can I tell if they're the later parts? I'll have a look at the rear beam bushes and track rod ends too.

I know that a lot of the suspension on my 182 cup is knocking on a bit and although it's going through the MoT with no worries it's feeling a little vague and under-damped so I've decided to do a refresh. So far I've got the following: Set of OE shocks Cooksport springs OE wishbones with...

Glad I grabbed a set last week now!

SSDs never need defragging and doing it shortens their life, only a tiny bit but if you keep doing it then it adds up.

Is it only when web browsing? If you download a juicy pdf (car brochure or similar) or a complex word document with images in it and scroll around/add some text how does that perform? Worth downloading and running malware bytes if you've not already.

Laptop or desktop? Could be a thermal issue if it's intermittent, not likely if it's constantly slow though.

That's bloody weird. Is the car lowered? Is there something in the wheel arch lining which could have been gouging the tyre?

Also worth checking you've not got a split in one of the hoses.

Can you browse the web OK?

I had the same symptoms, the injector wasn't closing properly so was fine when driving normally or booting it but it was injecting too much fuel when not under load which made the engine run a bit rough and set the light flashing.

I've got a couple of invites for a 64Gb One, drop me a PM if you'd like one.

182 cat is supposed to be very free flowing so you won't see much if any power gain. Mine feels like I've lost a bit lower down the range but gained a bit at the top end, might just be imagining it though :) Sounds great though.

I got mine from here, was the cheapest I could find at the time but someone said they'd seen them for just over £130 on another thread, didn't specify where though. http://ears.co.uk/motorsport/anti-roll-bars/4031-whiteline-brr10z-anti-roll-bar-18mm-clio.html

Yep, those are the ones. Finally got the decat and ARB fitted yesterday. The decat seems pretty good, feels like I've lost a tiny bit of low down grunt but gained an equally tiny bit at the top end which I'm happy with. It's definitely improved the sound, I think the word is "fruitier" ;) The...

It might not be throwing a fault code as such but the angle sensor could be returning a bad value for the position. Can that code reader report the sensor value? If not you might need to get it onto a CLiP to see what the sensor is reporting.

Another vote for a Snappy retrim if you want to keep the wheel, the quality of the work is absolutely brilliant.

Bloody hell, that was wet! I'll be at brands on the same rubber in a week or two - haven't decided which day to go for yet but if it's not dry I think I'll leave the road tyres on. Only got 2mm of tread on two of the AD08s and don't fancy that on standing water :)

I see where you're coming from there for sure. They're rally/autocross wheels really so are designed to keep stones out of the brakes while still offering plenty of cooling. The previous owner tracked his cup with them on so I should be fine. The angle of the original pic probably didn't help...