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I'd try it again to see if you get power and if not have a good pull on the cables to see if it kicks in to life.

S-Class around Eastwood... baller!

The ECU earths via the engine loom not the ECU chassis so it won't make any difference if it is bolted down or not. It does sound like a poor battery/earth issue but it's curious that it wouldn't work when he swapped the setups but when he swapped back it fired... nothing was done to the...

Are you sure everything was plugged in correctly?

Same as every other 16v... 5yrs or 72k

Because there is a little known issue specifically with the Cups and the 5v reference voltage which occurs with a dash loom fault. Its a throw back between the brake pedal switch and the "brake on" signal to the ecu which seems to f**k up track 2. When you scope the two tracks you can see it...

In that case then you're going to need to get it checked for codes but I'll bet £20 with you that it comes down to an inconsistency between pedal tracks 1 and 2. Personally I'd want to data log the two tracks at both the pedal and ecu to see whats occurring as it is either a wiring or ecu fault...

That's because they're not and the fuel consumption does not represent the cars pace. The 200 is the car the 197 should've been from the start... night and day difference imo

LoL I wasn't bring mardy just not willing to explain what I'm doing... now go do it!

Re: Road/Track 172 It'll be from a Mk1 phase 1 or 2 and yes, it'll be a bolt on part.

I call upper wiring loom fault

Another one to the stable! Welcome to CS

Different tyres chap.

Worth it though Dan especially in competition.

So you're swapping bits without any testing and its not working... classic fail. Do you understand how these cars are wired and how specifically the 172 Cup throttle potentiometer circuit works? If not stop asking questions and just start the car with the brake pedal pressed (keep it pressed...

I drove my Megane today to Leicester and back and got this: It's a 2.0T petrol also not diesel. How did they get the 197 so wrong because its not even fast!

LoLz, I'm not gonna try and sell him some coilovers. I've got a Sprinter/Hill Climb car coming in on the 21st for a set though and mine are still great so already better than the Spax (TeeHee)

Squiggly line orange light on? Vehicle revs to 2.5-3k? Press and hold the brake pedal then, with the brake pedal still pressed, does it start and rev okay/light go out until you release the brake pedal?

Extremely unlikely to be the TB on a Cup tbh. More likely a signal incoherence issue

AST's are alot though!

Be honest, you wore that all day didn't you ;)

Correct, the outer extremities are mandatory but all cars have had factory fitted third/central brake lights since before 2003 so I personally want to see them working if fitted... my discretion and unplugging it alone won't sway the decision. Remove it all together or if it's there then...

Thanks... I feel stupid

What engine is it Waitey? I had this with a Mitsi engined Hyundai and it scared the fook out of me following a timing chain. Left it over night and the bugger struck up first time the next morning as if nothing was wrong (Stupid hydraulic buckets).

That's just the brake light chap. They're prone to water ingress into the PCB but the connection is also susceptible to corrosion on the pins so pull the lamp out and see if cleaning the connections makes it work again... could be a cheap simple fix.

Removing the spoiler all together would be my advice to but really it should be working. If it came to me the brake light forms part of a body panel which can be removed but as it's a factory fit item i'd class it as not technically an "Additional" brake light. Stop being tight and just...

100% fail... all brake lights must work when the pedal is pressed.

You massive stalker Toby lolz

A/C request adds around 300rpm on the X65 so this is likely to be either an inlet leak or the ECU isn't seeing something. When running does the engine respond to any pedal angle or can you plant it and it makes no change to the engines speed? What is the peak rpm on the rev counter?

You shouldn't need to change it as the ABS loom is completely independent to the engine loom. The only thing the ABS loom will need is a fused power link from the engine bay fuse box