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Warning light flashes how many times per second, one or four?

The seal is a compression fit rubber seal which over time goes flat, brittle and stops sealing. This normally results in a major-ish oil leak over the gearbox and on to the floor but occasionally oil sneaks into the coolant jacket to.

And you're still going to need diagnostics to see what is causing it. It could be a faulty H02 heater, incorrect coolant sensor value, cylinder no.1 recognition not completed, poor fuel pressure or a plethora of other things that you can neither see or hear without the aid of a computer.

It varies from garage to garage. We charge £45 for an hours fault finding as I hate charging for "diagnostics" which is nothing more than code reading.

The burning smell isn't a good sign I'm afraid. Really, its one of those where you have to see it but I'd guess something has gotten wet. Does anything electrical in the car still function (central locking, lights, heater blower)?

I wouldn't even do that, I'd just say buy an R27/R26 or other faster car and be done. We've got a tCe on the drive and everyone looks at me like a rapist when I say tuning it is just a waste of time/money... sure, it'll do 170hp and blah, blah but its her daily and if I wanted to waste £3k...

Phase 1's don't have half the electrical problems of the X65's like the Phase 2's. No UCH, No silly TB and pedal setup... just dodgy IACV's and the odd corroded relay that you can actually change. All good innit fam

Proper diagnostic session to start with chap, not a code read. Had one in yesterday that was just using more fuel than it should. After 5mins poking around the ECT parameter was showing 50 degrees C when the engine was actually sub 30 degrees. New ECT and all good again. Don't always expect...

Got an address for the guy on piston heads so I can go punch him in the ****? Those PAS lines are a fire bomb waiting to happen using non-reinforced general rubber hose and securing it with cable ties (the really small shitty type) right behind the exhaust manifold. Honestly though its a...

Correction to... that housing plate is around £110 + vat. Normally though its just the seal that needs replacing and costs around £11-13 Mick

LoLz at that... not even close!

And earth?

I know the car, he's a newbie from the Peugeot side. Came in to see me in it earlier in the week

We can throw mud by wheel spinning in the car park Dave... much more fun.

I have a similar feeling but against the Trophy/V6 spoiler. Its like they made it retardedly larger just because.

I can put a poorly sprayed back bumper on and buy your blue s**t if it means I can tag along lol

We need a meet boys, its getting boring now.

Oi, where's my tenner... you can afford to buy a car but not pay me back! I'm gonna ninja it round and take your centre caps then flog em back to you (or Daveski) at this rate xxx

Eh, but surely you fit cams and its easy two-undred break innitz?

Buy an X65? Eh, they're simple, fun, relatively cheap to run and I love my 172 loads but if i had a choice (or if I could move my mods) I'd be in a 200 in a heart beat. The GT is capable but I personally wouldn't try tuning it unless you're doing it for bragging rights. The Clio III RS will...

Wait, did i just see a new car doing actual RWD slides? Hello cheeky... I like it alot based in those pics and video but seriously doubt they'll come out and call it the new Renault 5

Door card off, disconnect the motor, apply some electrical contact cleaner to the plug then reconnect. Try the door locking again before reassmebling the door card. This normally fixes them but sometime the actuators need to be replaced.

Is that an offer of a ticket? LoL

LoLz... no, its a separate part I'm afraid. We do belts and dephaser with an oil and filter change for £560 though (and thats with genuine belt kits to) www.diamondmotors.co.uk Mick

Schoolboy error!

Last one... That's on an R26 mind but its the same market

Its made up from bits that you can buy from a kit car builders. I don't sell parts only though I'm afraid

He's probably right as they're a solid section from factory and the process for replacing the £700 rear silencer (I LOL'd hard when I saw that price) is to cut the pipe and sleeve it, as pictured in the OP's first post. There's a similar sleeve kit avaikable for the Laguna II/Vel Satis 2.0...

A common failure I'm afraid. I fit a new cup and ball type connection made from Aluminium and make a rod as Renault will only supply a new rod with a motors assembly for around £48 + vat

Just throwing this out there... I bet it never had a full kit... very doubtfull anyway thay a new, genuine idler bearing unit has failed in that time as they normally go for 2-3years in a wet area without any issues. Proberbly just had a new belt or a belt and INA tensioner unit.