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The studs only act to hold the wheel to the face of the hub. It's the spligots job to centralise the wheel (s) and take the vehicles weight.

Even money says the wheel isnt mounted quite right. Take the spacers off and run it. I bet the problem vanishes.

Hub centric spacers?

Just clean them up, they don't need replacing if they've been covered in grease

A ticking French car!!! LoL Does it dissapear when revved a bit harder Adam? Oil level okay? How oftern is it driven? Mick

I ran these in conjunction with my pure motorsport stud conversion but I believe 6mm shorter standard bolts will do the job. Shorter bolts shouldn't make a difference as standard bolts go thru the hub face slightly.

Mike, if you want to save some cash I've decided to stop running my spacers so will be selling them later. They're MAD bolt to hub 15mm hub centric but you still need shorter bolts to fix your wheels. I'm looking for £45 less postage and I'll throw in the bolts to hold them to the hub. Mick

I'll look them up for you in the morning if you've not got them from someone else by then.

The C2i codes are only for fine control also not full control so unlikely to be this. I assume clip is showing that the injector control is functioning correctly and that they're not needing any running in cycle (as the Clio III K9K does).

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=111006390676 Or http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=130765638378

Generic/ODBII readers will not do ABS on renaults I'm afraid... there's your no code problem

They're angle torqued chap so you're gonna need either a dial wheel or a techwrench

I really can't be bothered with spacers anymore, I don't trust them. Currently running +15mm on the front and +10mm on the rear with my road Turinis. The Williams wheels are my PE2'd track rims.

If the car has climate have you plugged the panel back in?

Have you done any work in the engine bay?

Personally, thats a new mount needed I'm afraid. Muthf £&$#r

You really should plug it in to see what's got its knickers in a twist mate cos it could literally be anything from a poor connection to a blown unit. Check the simple things first like earth's but honestly, clip time would be money will spent if you don't find anything obvious. Mick

I got bored waiting for the N4 to constantly come back in to stock so went with the Note 2 instead. Bit bigger but you soon get used to it and in truth, I actually prefer it.

Mine on Sportlines with 195's

Wat-up! Welcome to cs, get yourself signed up to the midlands group and come out with us sometime. Mick

Worst "I can't view my p**n" thread, ever

Doubt full but check the solenoid control write isn't shorting to ground. It's obviously a write or a connection fault though hence it manifesting itself when you hit a bump. All plugs/connections are nice and tight and the fuses are correctly secured?

UCH doesn't power the clockset so rules that one out mate. It's going to be power, earth or CAN related but without seeing I don't know where to suggest you start other than at the last place it was repaired.

Top mount knackered or no bearing at a guess

Turning off the ESP via the dash button does not turn off your ABS.

I'm considering the Surfave Pro to Dan. My old faithful Motion Tablet running XP is getting a bit long in the tooth and Pico doesn't boot fast enough some days.

Someone's been using the Carlube books again... "Is the vehicle French? 5w/30 C2"

Which is why, as suggested above, you should spend some money getting it correctly diagnosed which will then enable you to do the rectification works. I don't understand why you haven't already done this as you seem to acknowledge that guessing isn't going to resolve it. Bring it to me, I'll...

Ballast pack is most likely to be the cause then chap. When they die due to water ingress they are common for banging the fuse to that specific dipped beam circuit. Bring it in if you want it confirming as it could also be a short to positive also (ballast pack is my guess though). Mick

What problem are you having with the light?