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I've only just got the PE2's and the weather at present isn't ideal for pushing the Clio around the back roads but I'll let you know my opinion after Bedford.
I normally hate getting involved in these kinds of discussions as tyre choice is too subjective and everyone has differing opinions but...
I run Hankook V12's on my Turinis and I can't sing there praise enough. Just put some Williams Speedlines on for track use and fitted them with some new PE2's and in the wet I'm impressed.
Yoko Spec 2's are a great tyre but they wear so fast.
100% bugger all to do with the key or the induction loop on the ignition barrel if you ask me. The LED's state is solid red which clearly means (and the X65 system operation notes back this up) the key/code is not only being recieved but is being accepted just fine (if it were a code unknown...
I also had one this morning with the generic message "Injection Fault'... now needs x4 new injectors.
As before, really needs diagnostics to say exactly what is causing it.
As above, check the voltage output at the back of the alternator and make sure all power consumers are off (lights, heater blower, radio).
Most likely going to be the alternator though.
Exactly that, yes - I believe its a dash top off job though to get to the two connectors on the passenger unit and I always advise you use clip to put the system into work safe mode first but you'd probably get away with just unplugging them.
You can only de-configure airbag components IF they aren't plugged in to the CanBus.
The SRS module is self adapting and is always looking at the trigger lines to monitor for changes. If it see's a change that takes something away from the original configuration the MIL is triggered. If...
Just because the ignition is on doesn't mean these items will still work.
Steering is hydraulic and needs the engines rotation to drive the high pressure pump. As it's stalled or cut out no rotation so no pump.
Similar goes for the brakes... they are servo assisted which requires a vacuume...
There's about 14 various sensors on the engine so if you've soaked any of them take your pick.
I can't believe you honestly thought pressure washing an engine bay would be a good idea though... the general rule is Water + electricity = fucked
The post-CAT sensor is indeed there purely as a monitoring device to check the efficiency of the cars CAT function. It does not have any control over the vehicles fueling as this is all done by the pre-CAT sensor.
Without seeing it I think it's unlikely to be entirely down to the UCH as it wouldn't have any bearing on the engines actual running... my guess is a fucked earth/other wiring related issue.
Mick
Yeah because scrap yard owners and ebayers never lie do they?
Have the unit re-virginised for around £25 or buy another from a car in a scrap yard that you can see has no bag or inertia reel deployments.
Its a borneo1 vehicle so no tech sheet available. I actually miss the simplicity of these vehicles.
You're showing an impact listed which is why you can't do anything... its scrap pending the crash data being removed.
I run the V12's to and honestly, despite tyres being a really subjective topic, can say they're brilliant in nearly all environments except serious icy conditions
As above, injector seal will make no difference to engine compression levels on an F4R as they're after the valves.
Re-run the dry test and if your results are identical carry out a wet test which will, as also mentioned above, tell you if you have a ring seal or valve sealing issue.
How do...
I remember it was said that a 2.0 K16 was impossible and then Judd Power dropped the K20 which was not only a winner but was rumoured to be reliable to.
Shame Rover died though as there were some really interesting cars on the cusp of being released including a new C series common rail 2.0 16v...
Should be able to yes but he'd need a management that can run VVC also. Fred has pointed out the main issue which would be the injection fuel pump which will need changing/fuel pressure stepping down for use with carbs.