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Some friend there - It's probably popped a fuse for the UCH - check the NSF dash fuse box. Why did he take a live from the central locking button in the first place, something wrong with the one already there with a dedicated fused link for a stereo? Mick

Seat out, covers off, swap units and then reverse process to refit Mick

We're still talking about his A/C here right? LoLz

Drivers side scuttle area... Easy to DIY Yes but it'll have to be before 5.30 in the week mate.

If in doubt mate change it. Genuine Renault items are around £6 but you don't have to use them as non-gen are just as good at around £4. They get damp and crud up which is normally the source of nasty smells starting (if it has a filter that is). You will deffo need a system cleaner in though...

In the old days codes were machine/manufacturer specific and the descriptions, whilst in the same area, could be misleading. It would appear you have a few issues: Brake pedal switch (mega common) SAS (fairly common with age) Can-Signal (needs further investigation) Mick

When I took the wife to the lakes in June there were loads of guys with cameras hanging around which made me wonder why. Then, around 4pm in Windermere I got an answer... x2 F15's, a some Typhoons hugging the hillsides. Apparently the Longbows use the route to but we didn't see any (probably a...

Check the fuses in the UPC under the bonet.

When was the cabin filter last changed? The bomb is a good way to go but first get to the source of the problem. Mick Diamond Motors

Those codes mean nothing to me. What did he use to read the car with an old Snap-On brick?

They did but would you trust it? Renault also used to say Turbo petrol/diesel vehicles had 18,000m service intervals and look how that turned out!

Yeah I saw that but it doesn't mean the ATS itself is the fault - Live data check it after cleaning the TB and go from there. Mick

It sounds like you've got a few issues here which may/may not be linked. The first, the cutting out issue, is fairly common and normally attributed to a seriously fouled TB. Common symptoms are dodgy idle, poor response and cutting out. Simply clean it and refit and you should fix this one. The...

We do them for £335 with genuine parts but we are in Nottingham

It could be a genuine decoder ring fault so check the connections there: Black - Ground Red - +5v Brown - transponder code line to UCH If this checks out id suspect the UCH Mick

UCH screen > Live data > is the key shown as "recognised" or "authorised"?

Its a very simple job to do - Did one yesterday for a guy that was driving in a straight line but showing +355 degrees.

Looks like the MTU isn't switching something on/off so check the basics (power and earth connections) then start looking for signs of water ingress into the cabin area behind the dash near the MTU. Mick

Could be a clutch but the juddering could also be a buggered engine mount. Really it needs looking at to properly diagnose chap. There's no black and white rule as to how long a clutch will last. Depends entirely on who's driving it and how. Mick

Lumpy running on these is standard especially at cold (it's a bit s**t tbh) and the oil temp sounds about right to. I believe they run a water cooled plate but it's not really an oil cooler "as such" Mick

At the minute we do the belt service (with water pump and coolant) for £430 using genuine belt kits and parts. Mick Diamond Motors

This is why I have a matched UCH/Key set as a test rig for the common vehicles as it saves expensive guess work. So if the components you mention are coming up in red on the network schematic it means they've either checked in but have issues or they've not been recognise/detected. Lets forget...

Welcome to my world! It looks/sounds like its missing multiplex information to me hence the missing ID's (I've got a Megane II dCi in with similar problems that had a UPC after water ingress that started once and then after parking up hasn't gone again since). I assume you've confirmed the UCH...

Does it go back to "0" when you turn it off or does it stay put? Gut feeling is someone has played with the needle or the pointer is just broken and not fixed to the spindle correctly. Mick

1.2 by any chance? #standard You hopefully have a deep 14mm socket to hand. If so just gently keep tapping it over the plug with a hammer until you get purchase on the hex. Smash it like Chuck Norris and you're fucked so, and I emphasise this point, go easy!

If I could beat you on a flat I'd be happy

Mate all jokes aside its done you well... But Michael Douglas wants it back when you're done faffin around

Paul, I think I know what he's doing. He thinks that if he rides it fast enough he'll go back in time to the 80's when it was new LoLz

Beeston CC putting you thru it hard then?

Not really; you're looking for damaged sections of wiring in the wiring loom around the gearbox area. May be a power or earth issue also. If you want drop it in and I'll fix it. Mick Diamond Motors