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Have you checked the main power supply wiring for signs of damage?

Could be a UCH fault but it will most likely be a poor connection somewhere on the starter circuit as its bumping. If you want me to take a look for you then give me a shout and I'll book you in. We've got a 182 coming in tomorrow for diagnosis of a suspected UCH so it seems they're in fashion...

You've got a few issues from what I can see but honestly, it's going to need looking at properly to resolve them. A new H02 is likely to be the cause of the poor performance but id sooner test it and see what the gases are doing before advising you spend out on one. There's nothing worse than...

Pulsing how? That sounds like a relay fault or a very badly corroded fuse

Personally id advise you against a bypass device as anyone can start your car once inside. Oh and no, if it was an immobiliser fault the led would be flashing at 4hz I promise you, the imob is not your problem an you most likely have a wiring fault. If you wanna waste £100 though go ahead and...

CLIP won't really tell you anymore in situations like this. You need to understand the systems, how they're wired and what it is that's not working... This will be a simple issue causing the problem but it's finding it that'll be the tricky part.

I use CLIP but likely hood of you having access where you are is slim. I'd say try an ELM based interface 327 or better and then one of the many free pieces of EODBII software to see what the ECU is seeing.

Red light is saying key accepted, imob disarmed but a key system is not reporting in over CAN so no start. Check the gearbox area for damaged wires in the loom and I'd also pull the three fuses in the engine bay fuse box, clean em an replace Mick

From personal experience an issue the the fuel pump itself will not normally throw a fault code on any diagnostic reader as they're not that complex (yet). Something more likely to give that kind of fault and a non-start/UCH fault would be the main control relays in the engine bay fuse box. Pull...

The dash gauge isn't a fair test as its pretty inaccurate due to the ranges being quite wide. Ideally, as uts a simple two wire resistance based sensor, you will need to look at the Injection ECU live data and graph it (if your kit will allow it) to look for signs of a signal problem. You have...

You need diags mate... Just pissing in the wind without it and guessing can be costly.

What engine?

The physical engine should go in on your MkII mounts and I love the tCe units (We have a MkIII on the drive and it's not fast but it's better than the vvc'd K4M IMO). They not boost monsters but are really refined in they way they drive so should go well in a slightly lighter Clio II. You may...

Generally the cooling fan switch circuit is controlled by the ECU and has a single temp sender located in the thermostat housing on the gearbox side of the cylinder head. A/C equipped cars are slightly more complicated though and there should be a surface temp resistor on the radiator frame...

A new UCH being fitted today... another £400 gone!

The flashing MIL is saying that the issue is something that can potentially damage the CAT and in these cases its normally coilpack or injector(s). A code reading session will no doubt say something like "Missfire on one or more cylinders" or "Generic ODB fault". If its got an ignition or...

Adam, As above, coil pack or possibly an injector matey. Mick

You need to be a paid member chap... honestly, its the best £12 you'll spend!

Sorry mate, its one of those days... just giving everyone bad news today LoL Got a Megane II back in that had a starting problem due to a corruption on the Can-Net processor and as the cost of fixing or replacing for new was seriously stupid we told him to buy a second hand setup. He did this...

Does it sit at a normal idle speed? Sounds like a slight leak in the inlet track to me.

The only way to ditch the auto wipers is to reconfigure the UCH and disconnect the rain sensor. Then it will work in a traditional way. Unfortunately all Renaults since '98 (Megane I) have had auto rear wipe in reverse when the front wipers are on and there is no way to disable this other than...

Sounds like a mech fault... Replace the selector with a used unit if you can find one breaking will be cheaper. From memory you've got to remove the knob to full dismantle the reverse mechanism. I'd start by seeing exactly what is abusing it to stick.

Do the water pump at the same time and try to use a genuine pump as cheap ones are cheap for a reason.

It's not a difficult/pricey job on these so don't be put off.

Honestly, guess work with problems like this does nothing but frustrate you and empty your wallet. Just get it plugged in and go from there chap. Mick Diamond Motors

It rarely works though as its difficult to get full penetration... Most times the weld ends up being as much use as a chocolate fire guard.

If you buy an after market stat be sure to fit a genuine seal as the Q&H seals leak after a couple of months. They're just under £5 from Renault but by the time you've bought it with a cheap stat you might as well have got the genuine kit. Mick

5yrs or 72k

Its all about using the correct tool for the job and there's no shame in using a longer bar to get better mechanical advantage on an old, tricky fixing... Okay, a 1meter breaker bar is a bit OTT but there's nothing wrong with a foot long if it helps over a shaky 1/4 short ratchet. Always clean...

Yours really needed a new H02 sensor to Dave which made it even worse.