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For the money though the 1144 isn't a bad choice though as an upgrade from standard.

CT1144's just squeal when braking especially below 25mph

It's not a guaranty though... Pressure plates can go beyond or before that mark to.

Engine bay: gearbox, chassis rail and sometimes on the front of the block. Make sure they are connected, clean and not broken? I'd also be looking at the relays in the engine bay for signs of corrosion

Type-D is a description of the mixture and intended temperature protection range not an actual product name. You need an ethelyn glycol based anti-freeze mixed with water to give protection to -23 degrees. It comes in all different colours do don't be put off by the pretty fluids but never mix...

Needs to clip in... May have to take the lamp unit off the car to do it though depending on the size of your hands.

Start by checking some basics first. Battery voltage measured as good? Fuse on the battery + terminal intact? Battery connections tight? Earth points cleans and intact? Will the vehicle bump start? Mick

Kwik-Fit are making a big push with AC Don... They're rather competitive to. Our local one is very good and I send all of my leak tests and re-gasses to them.

Aww man, that's the breakfast of champs right there! I'm a bit more traditional now I've given up tabs... 18 coffees before I even consider lifting the shutters and unlocking the tool chest.

Make sure he buys you breakfast!

Didn't Kwik-Fit offer to do a leak test? Mick

Yours sounds a bit different GMan but really you need to get it plugged in first and go from there as there's a few things that can cause the solid red light. Mick

I can understand some of the anger - Cosmetic mods are one thing and deffo down to personal taste but when you get a 17yr old wanting to bolt a C20LET into the front of a 1.2 Corsa without any consideration for updating other stuff it becomes dangerous... Some mods need doing right or need not...

It's because it's a two circuit switch and is linked to (obviously) the brake light circuit but also directly to the ECU and ABS as these need to know the status of the brake pedal.

I've had three of these this week alone and it seems to be coming a common failing (all Cups). Micro breaks in the dash wiring loom is the cause where the loom is clipped too tight. The solution is to either find these breaks and fix em all or buy a replacement loom section from Renault and...

I liked it

I will consult the books for you

R134a contains the lubricating oil

Depends on how far the rears have been adjusted. Normally you'd undo the big nut in the center then drop the hand brake lever... The drum will normally then slide off (with a bit of hammer /lever action if not) You may need to back off the shoes to get the drum clear of the hub. Don't forget...

IF it does need a UCH then you're looking at around £500 as they're coded to the car and not just anyone can do it. We do them for £390 and if we need the vehicles access code it's an extra £20. As for broken wiring this is where CLIP comes in to it's own as it runs a basic infrastructure test...

It's possibly not the fault of the people that did the belt change. It's possible that it's always been leaking and it's recently dipped below min. pressure. Unless there are signs of obvious damage I'm afraid there's no real way of proving otherwise so step one, digs to confirm the button is...

Seen this one many times before mate. If there's 5v at the ring, a good earth and the transponder line is continuous it will 100% be a new UCH. Not done too many this year, it seems to be all throttle issue at the minute. Anyway, fingers crossed its a feed/connection fault but if not bad...

Diagnostic first to confirm/deny he fault as low gas pressure or a mechanical/electrical fault. Then go from there

There's your problem then... It is seeing a door open

It's rare the decoder rings turn out to be the actual fault - I think I've changed one in 10 years. Normally, in my experience, these faults turn out to be either key or UCH related... But I hope the new ring fixes it. Mick

Nope, the system is balanced and requires a min gas pressure to be able to work (Min 0.9Bar I think). If the system shows a pressure lower than this the compressor will not engage to protect it. The same is true if the external temp is below 4 degrees C... The R134a isn't a true gas below these...

Sounds like it needs a synchro and bearing rebuild mate and it's normally 3rd that goes.

So does that mean your not selling it to me for £600? Gay!

Why don't you get somewhere else to plug it in? Needs drags to confirm but it's prob a fuelling or ignition related fault (maybe even CTS). Mick

Id recomend the Armatech setup... Its £200 but worth it. Scuttle is the accepted normal for the power and fire triggers and you can always adjust the position of the wiper arm to give it clearance