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CLIP check to rule out the sensor array... I've seen a few with faulty camshaft position sensors cause this before as they're mega common on the K4M's aswell as the newer F4R's but its not an overly cheap sensor and it normally causes a "Beeeep" followed by "Injection Fault" to appear on the MFD...

A larger rolling radius will have no bearing upon the castle nuts ability to hold torque/clamping force. It will naturally try to unwind as interia effects it. This is why we use Loctite on assemblies or nylock fixings as the plastic helps resist the unwinding effect. I am willing to bet the...

Are you re-using the driveshaft nut? If so you should consider replacing it as they are nylocks and I bet the nylon band is non-existant Mick

Covered loads of times before why it's needed... Use it, don't use it... Its your car and if you're insisting on doing the work wrong you must take responsibility for your actions.

I remove the aux belt, bumper trim, associated support bracketry and it all comes out perfectly thru the drivers side nostril... Around 1.5hrs work if your used to them.

Where are you based? We're in Nottingham and may be able to help: http://www.diamondmotors.net/diamond-motors-welcome/diagnostics Mick

As above, most likely causes are a stuck/sticking/fucked throttle or an induction track leak. I also like to pull the plugs out but that's to make life easier manually advancing the crank plus also to make sure they're all present and correct... if not I give Chinese burns and inflict Justin...

For the seats yes and if you don't have the ability to LOCK the detonators disconnect the battery before you do any work. Then simply create a nice soldered joint and protect it with a good quality heat shrink... Then you're done. The drivers airbag fault will most likely be down to a busted...

By non-universal I mean anything that's not a cheap copy or requires you to cut and solder wires to your existing plugs. You should be able to pick up an NGK/NTK item for under £100 and they're quality.

I love working on Cups - its how they all should be! The Cup belt can still do damage if it gets wrapped around the bottom pulley and whilst it's not as common to slip the timing it is still possible so for £12-18 extra, change it!

How did he manage to pinpoint it as being MAP sensor related? Yes it's entirely possible but normally a map sensor would cause it to be s**t everywhere rather than just at low grunt. Does it miss when being revved and not under load or is it only an issue under load? Mick

Thermostat and housing is a one piece plastic unit on the 1.2 and it goes brittle which allows the seal to go inside the housing and causes the leak. 100% needs a new stat which will come with a new seal.

The heater element for the Ho2 sensor is part of either the upstream or downstream senors (which in this case is the upstream/pre-CAT sensor)? The first thing you should do in this case however is check the wiring to the upstream sensor as they have a habit of getting burnt or crudded up. If...

Depends on the gearbox code but most likely guess is the diff retaining circlip

LoL at the main dealer not having an oil pressure test kit... They must employ a fictional writer in that franchise to come up with these excuses. I wonder what they do when a Clio with a DPO auto box comes in with shifting problems. As long as its checked and confirmed as being on the money...

I'd say ring seal/blow-by is the most likely cause of that not stem seals. Compression test and a leak down test would be the next step. Is it high mileage this car or has it just been punished? Mick

No, it's an oil pressure switch not an oil pressure sensor... It can only see when oil pressure drops below a preset value. Luke, that mayo build up is normal in a tCe which is why you have to remove te remote filler tube and clean it when servicing. The wife's is exactly the same mate. So...

It's the heater element that's not working. Check the wiring is okay and I'd so swap the unit out for a new one.

Needs a proper check mate... I did the same on an RB182 yesterday with a minor, temperamental misfire but we fixed that (Needed a plug and injector on No.1) Check injectors, plugs, leads, compression and finally timing in that order.

Is it still misfiring since the new plugs? I bet it's DF110 - ODB Fault in which case it's most likely to be an injector. Mick

I will gladly take a look at that for you but not this week!!!

Another thing to check is that the new pads are seated correctly. A common fail is where people don't get the boss on the back of the pad sat in the piston notch.

You've done something wrong when re-assembling/resetting the pistons. Does the wheel spin freely when the brake is off?

Check the snap shot information before clearing down the codes... This info can help when using ODB readers. From above it appears the problem is down to cylinders 3 & 4 so if it's a waste spark ignition, unless it's got a lead issue, it rules out an ignition fault. Next step would be to...

Check the starter motor solenoid control wire... Common fault. Mick

Re: Clio 1.2 8v wont start after new battery today lost all power and slowed to a sto It could be a fair few things... Cheap code readers work in these situations.

Neverseen this before I'm afraid but I'd suggest you confirm the basics are good first; make sure all earths are good and then check for corrosion in any connections of the coponents that you're having problems with. Mick

As above, there is a length tollerence on them as they're a stretch bolt. Perfectly safe to reuse if it's in tollerence and tightened up correctly but for the price why would you take the chance? Just sling a new one in

It will ned turning off mate. It will eventually self rectify but for speed just plug it in. The new rules are indeed being enforced as of May 1st, 2012. Also another cheerful one which should worry some; having a decat fitted to a vehicle that should have a CAT irregardless of warning light...

Where's the LIKE button!?! K-Seal is the Devil as it lines the entire coolant system and will eventually cause all your rubber pipes to split. It also blocks the heater matrix up and can cause other problems. The only way to fully purge it from the coolant system is to replace everything...