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As above, Danny's advice is sound - get the CAT nice and hot by giving it a "spirited" run or by holding it at 3k for 30secs to a minute before putting the probe up its chuff again which really the MOT station should have tried but some are more interested in getting you on/off the test bay ASAP...

That clicking is normal when there's an issue. You really need it plugging in I'm afraid Mick

Resetdrives ash and trips then go for a drive. If you don't know how to do this have a quick search because it's been covered loads of times. Mick

So the buttons operation/status can clearly be seen as functioning on CLIP? Want to bring it in? (joke) check the link above and run the dash bulb test to see if the light comes on. Mick

No, the EML wont be on but the SRS and ABS/ESP and SERV lights will. You need to have the car re-configured on CLIP ideally or try the resistor method and have some switches wired in for the cruise. Mick

You're not going to be the only one shortly mate as the new MOT rules regarding the operation of all warning lights are in as of May 1st! Chances are you're right in your assumption and the previous owner is trying to hide something. You can either remove the clock set and replace it with a...

My good friend Dunc has a MINT standard set with amazing Michelin rubber on. He's after £450. PM me if you're interested and I'll send you his contact details Mick

Yep, one of a few common causes of the 30A blowing that is. Glad you sorted it though. Mick

Look for breaks in the wiring, specifically in the loom sections near the ECU as the CanBus twisted pair are prone to brekaing in this area. A decent diagnostic session will help though as it narrows down what to look for. If you have access to CLIP Diagnostics that gives an even better idea as...

Most likely a short to + blowing the fuse. Look for damaged wiring Mick

That's really smart that and if he's happy who cares what it cost... You just see them anymore so when you do and they're like that it's a treat.

How old is it? Possibly just the battery is all cycled out and it needs a new one.

Halfords sell them to... £11.99 iirc

Set fire to it (the body kit, not the car... You already did that) Told yer it would run ;)

Tell your mate it's not as simple as that. What is going to work out the number of pulses per rotation and the frequency which in turn dictates the speed signal output? You need to do one of two things mate: 1 - replace the gearbox with one that will accept a sensor. 2 - live without a speedo...

s**t mate, that was a close one! On the plus side I'm sure you've fixed the problem now. Mick

It's normally the thicker red wires in the engine bay fuse box area that break. The early Clio II's had problems with water ingress due to rain water running down the inner passenger wing and in to the fuse box. This buggered the connections as well as caused broken wires in later years. Take...

I had an Omega 3.0 Elite in Tourer form and it was simply brilliant which, unfortunately, isn't something I can say about the other Vauxhalls I've owned in the past. I wanted the MV6 for the manual box but in reality the auto box is far better suited. I've already had 2 of the 3 cars that are...

The reason for why the LED is constantly on has been covered a fair few times now but chances are your car is not starting because there's a broken wire in the engine loom. Mick

An oil pres switch will not stop the engine starting no. I'm willing to go on a limb and say the LED will be on solid and not going out.

That's a problem then... Check the fuses in the engine bay first of all and trace the wires back as they are known for breaking, especially when the vehicles have been laid up. Mick

The engine won't physically "turn over" or just simply won't "start"? Only asking so we are clear as you've had an oil pressure warning light on and continued to drive the vehicle.

I've not got access to any of my docs till Monday but I'm sure DF014 relates to a wiring fault between the MTU/UCH and the ECM specifically for transmitting the imob auth code. If the main body control is receiving the key code fine then the dash will indicate no fault and neither will the...

Earthing is the most likely cause and fairly simple to check with a multi-meter so if you don't already have one, buy one ;) Mick

The light staying on solid is saying the immobiliser has been disarmed but there is a wiring fault which is stopping an important item from reporting in and so starting the car is prohibited. Chances are the UCH itself is fine. Mick

£380 here not £500

Good result then mate... Bloody horrible things those subframe bolts.

I find it's always the O/S rear captive bolt that spins and thankfully a midget length ring spanner just fits in the stupid gap. If you don't have one equip a grinder with a cutting disc and fetch the head off the bolt to allow you to fully drop the subframe. You can then get the remains of the...

You need the pump off now to take it to a Bosch service center... They *may* have spares but if not its deffo gonna need a replacement pump.

Oh dear, that's nots good as I believe that is part of the fuel pump itself!