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Like the phase 2, on the phase 1 the ECU and the MTU'S are both coded so it should start. Is the charged ECU also from a phase 1? Do you have access to any kind of code reading equipment? Mick

I've just got your PM mate so sorry for the slow replying. Not had chance to get on CS this week as I've had AIDS and been mega busy! Really you are going to need diagnostics and if that coil has indeed blown and the vehicle will now no longer start then a fuse is sounding like the least of...

Yes as it's one of those jobs that most regret taking on... Horrible job.

Most likely the brake pedal switch. Try the search matey cos it's been covered to death. Mick

Then you need a mobile auto-spark

Yep, we do a full diagnostic and the scope is one of many tools we employ. When were you thinking?

Was it the newer blue type or the older black one?

Some poor sod might actually believe you.

Yell.com <------ its fantastic!

Yep, injector seal isn't fitted correctly. Remove, re-seat it and try again.

In this case he's wrong, it doesn't need this however the Sirus32/34 ECM's do have adaptives which when reinitialised can and do make the car drive a bit better.

The "Stop Leak" isn't a bodge like K-seal as it doesn't clog up your coolant pipes and gallery's. It stays liquid and reacts to air but it is only to be considered a temporary solution to a problem. Really you should replace the radiator and thoroughly flush the coolant system afterwards.

From new? Doubtfull - Get it checked mate cos hesitation, poor running and general lack of go at cold isn't right.

A beep code is a series of beeps which, depending on what you hear, gives you an idea of what is wrong.

Alarm wise you need to read the manual mate... it will give you a "beep" code when you dissarm it that will help you find out what is triggering it. Mick

WTF did he use to data log that an old green screen Amstrad or Acorn Electron!?! LoLz at the HiTech print out... Me thinks he needs a new printer. Takes me back to the early 90's that. As above, they all say theirs is the best, most accurate dyno in the world but in truth non of them are and...

What car? What problems? The UCH performs many functions so you need to give us as much information as possible if you want some sort of help. Mick

You will have a couple of problems here: Firstly the TC and SERV light will be a fault somewhere on the ABS system so you will need to connect to that, not the ECM, to diagnose this fault. Secondly what were the actual fault codes/description and did you replace the flywheel sensor with a...

That's an amazing website to... Bookmark it people!

Danny, do you still have that TB?

It shouldn't no as the stat is a regulator of coolant temp and at cold it won't make a difference. Diagnostics and a peek at the live data should answer this one. Mick

That's not gonna help matters as the ecu needs the speed input. Replace the gearbox sensor with a new one from Renault... They're not mega expensive and fairly easy to change. Mick

Has any work been done on the brake circuit recently? What's the fluid level like? I've seen this message appear on the Clio III several times and in all cases its been because an air bubble has hit the ABS module and whilst it doesn't stop the ABS or conventional brakes working its bloody...

It needs a service... TB is most likely badly fouled and needs cleaning. Mick

Believe it or not it is not normal! It is most likely a fault with the H02 heater element or the CTS but really a diagnostic session would confirm/deny it. Mick

Are you sure it's the airbag that's causing the MIL?

Proberbly because there's been a serious fault raised and even though the sensor is working again the code still remains. The car wants checking over to be sure everything is right.

The second hand key is 100% useless mate and as above you need a 'virgin' fob. The fobs are around £63.00 +vat then you'll need a key blade to which are £13 +vat. Finally it will need programming to the vehicle which will cost £45 Mick

Yep, it'll happen again. I'd do the clutch pedal also as the rachet mech/cable guide will be worn to. Mick

Gearbox to chassis is a common point on all Renault. There's also one on the front of the block, dead center... It's the main engine loom earth. Could also be a poor battery to chassis ground but without being there and testing each earth I couldn't say for sure.