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There are build manuals floating around the net or you can buy a copy from eBay but i urge you to read it several times before lifting a finger until you understand what it is you are doing. Tool wise, how do you plan to achieve the 30nm + 84deg, 40nm + 110deg and 100nm that the various...

What tools have you bought for this job?

Its not difficult but you do need to fully understand the process and have the correct tools or else it will go wrong for you.

I'd love to help but over the phone this will be nigh on impossible to track or advise on i'm afraid... really would need to see. Mick

Google Translate failed for me so couldn't read the description... looks okay though. If only I ad a grand to spare :rolleyes:

Exactly as above... without diagnostics or at least scoping the wheel sensors you're just not going to know as theres loads of items on that system able to throw those lights on.

Martin, It is most likely that the timing is out somewhere. Did you unlock the sprockets when changing the belt? This is a common mistake but is required to allow the belt tension to properly equalise as failure to do so allows it all to creep a degree or three ruining the overall feel that...

Most likely cause though. This seems to be going round at the minute with F4's

Stop running it! Drop the gearbox oil then remove the 5th/reverse end casing. Once done you will see the internals so DON'T touch anything other than the really large nut just off center and to the left (if its not already fallen off). If it hasn't, re-tighten it and all your problems will be...

match thread pitch and bolt length and it will be fine... they are only grade 8.8 units IIRC so nothing special. Mick

it will be the clockring behind the steering wheel. The ribbon cable will most likely have broken. Mick

no as ELM uses mode-7 data only so no access to anything other than generic engine data. Mick

oh, hai depends what you want to do. yes it will display the vehicles generic information but thats all. you still wont have access to srs, abs or any other system of the car not covered by mode 7 generic data.

It can happen for a number of reasons; mainly abuse, component fatigue, cheap replacements used, bad luck, etc... i'm not a mapper so will not comment on products such as RSTuners contributing but i doubt it.

Yep.... seak help!

I don't do keys in anyway i'm afraid unless its re-coding existing key sets whilst setting up a new UCH as its dodgy teritory. I don't think you can "clone" these keys either but if i were you i'd get it looked at properly as the LED is doing some strange things and sending mixed messages; it...

yep, it all goes via the clockring... sounds like you've got yourself a short to ground or pos. New control set required i'm afraid unless you do a pikey re-solder on the ribbon cable but it won't last (they never do). Mick

try changing the battery in the keyfob. If this doesnt work a new key is looking likely and you might as well have x2 done for the one diagnostic fee.

So was that a yes or a no? LoL

Some of these units have to be put in a specific way. Take the bulb out of the holder and turn it round then refit to see if it works. Mick

First guess would be the crank position sensor. The poor hot starting but okay when its cooled is the main basis for this but you need to be sure the LED is not flashing you to death when it happens as that is deffo the imob inhibiting starting and could be the key, the decoder or something...

LoL mate thats the way we roll... Renaults are worth it though. Mine now needs a new turbo on top of keycards and the gearbox is screaming to be rebuilt to so if you wanna swap bills i'll send you mine and sort Fred out for you ;)

I... must... resis... its not a "shift" light! It is most likely a poor earth. Check those to the gearbox and behind the passenger headlamp unit with a DMM and improve where resistance is high. Mick

That will be the EM MIL meaning either a connection or component fault light. The EM light remains on as a code has been logged or is still classed as "active". Diagnostics will say what exactly and may be able to clear if its a "memory" fault. You should try the manual though... this explains...

Paul, i don't know how much the new sensors are off hand but they aren't too bad. To CLIP the vehicle would be £35 but i'd fit a switch for free cos they take all of 20seconds to do. Mick

LoL yeah but he's a moody ginger especially as his PK6 has also just started making a noise in 3rd gear.... Renaults... a never ending battle for your money!

We still don't know what the imob LED is doing yet; flashing or staying. Its very rare these things are actually an imob issue though. Mick

For a DIYer a cheap Laser set will be fine as long as you dont mistake it for a locking tool as it will bend and/or snap the cams. Its only supposed to hold the cam position whilst you use another tool to lock/unlock the pulley retaining bolts. The laser set from eBay is around £45

It could be the seat position sensor, lateral crash sensor or a wiring issue somewhere inside the seat. Without plugging it in though you are never going to know which of the 18 trigger lines or various components actually has the grump. Mick

nope... that cost is to supply and code a new key plus cut a new blade. Not a bad price really and you think you've got it bad? My Laguna II needs two new cards and even at cost its a bitter pill to swallow.