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As Danny said its more than likely going to be the rocker cover which is leaking and mis-diagnosed and needing a re-seal. Whilst you're having it done (properly at least) you might as well treat it to a timing belt, aux. belt and (service history and condition depending) water pump change...

I *believe* what the OP is attempting to say is the car uses fuel and has a warm idle speed of around 1050rpm rather than 800rpm. There could be a number of things causing the problems you are having. Start simple with the coolant temp sensor and its associated wiring. Then move on to the...

Not true, Gloebaid currently sell a CLIP for around £1900 which is software locked and has no support package. The RS Tuner is pretty good for what you'll want, need or use it for though. Mick

Pretty much every Clio II i see has a decoder/ring connection fault present but it doesnt mean a thing. How the hell did they manage to re-code a single key to as that would automatically wipe the second key? I think they *may* be making that up! If the starter isn't functioning the first place...

Which is why Thermoplungers were deployed but even still... takes way too long to get warm air from a tractor engine.

Chances are it will be a brake pedal coherance/pressure related fault. There is a guide on here to help you reset it. Mick

Re: Horn not working!!!!!!!! Firstly, check ALL fuses. Then check the horn has a good earth and is getting +12v when you press the button. No voltage = fault in steering wheel clockring, button or fuse. Voltage but no noise = dead sounder. Mick

I would cos imo they've done bugger all today and i hope you didn't pay anything.

Yes its called CLIP! Maybe they were busy and it genuinely needed to be booked in but I thought thats what you did. It needs this to rule out the dephaser/dephaser solenoid being at fault as per my posts above with DF080 and DF119. If they are there then it proves the dephaser fault. If they...

Theres a really good chance it was the alternators voltage regulator at fault.

Yep, fo'shizzle so don't put it off. Get it changed before it has chance to push out more than +14volts and does some real damage to your electronics! Mick

What mileage has it done and what was the mileage at the time of the belt change? Mick

its an electrical issue most likely yes

Dont forget the Clio III doesnt run the same dephaser as the Clio II and its not a failure its a dephaser fault which is why it needs CLIP'n first to confirm/deny the presence of DF080 and/or DF119

Yep, I would and don't let them fob you off.

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?607332-Diamond-Motors-Servicing-Price-Guide-From-£40

Check for leaks in fuel and exhaust system especially the leak off pipes. Mick

They are M8x1.5 Grade 8.8 or better.

Yes, i'd redo the job properly mate which is why we double check the job before we put the covers and mounts back on. What harm will incorrect timing do? The only harm you're doing is to your wallet not to mention losing the enjoyment from the car. Everytime i drive a customers 182 i seriously...

except when a dephaser pulley goes your engine doesn't ingest compressor shards

Leave it idling and see if it comes back louder... i bet it will.

They won't do a thing based on the videos, only on what they can see/hear. The one i have did the same but it will get to the point that it does it all the time. take it for a run; does it feel flat from say 90 on and does it use more fuel (than normal)?

Nice dephaser pulley Danny... impressive fail

The solenoid to ecu wiring also needs checking for continuity but thats Renaults job if you're covered by R-directs used car warranty. Report back though as the one i have is in exactly the same age/mileage range and i'm wondering if its an effected date range.

They may take a gamble and just change the solenoid as its £90 vs £900ish. If you have a multimeter to hand unplug the connector from the top of the solenoid and put the probes on each pin. You should see a resistance value of 9.5-10.75 kOhms... if not, replace!

Confirmation will be diagnostics with CLIP. You will most likely see DF080 as red and DF119 as amber. Mick

Okay they work and that is the exact noise the one i have next week to play with is making. Firstly, check that the noise vanishes when you raise the engine speed. If it does but comes back straight away (at warm idle) then the dephaser needs changing. If it doesn't then the solenoid and wiring...

Can't see videos. All i get is the Youtube message "Cannot view. The URL contained a malformed ID" Apart from the noise do you get any lights or messages on the display? I have one coming in next week with a dephaser fault after 31k! Mick

wait till you get a diagram then check for power at the relevant pins... just run a new, dedicated power line from the white R65 connector in the bay fusebox to the ECM. Saves time and faffing around. Mick

Personally, and without seeing the car, i think it'll be either a power or an earth issue to the ECM yes. I don't have my wiring diagrams to hand i'm afraid but the main +12v feed is known from breaking in the 90deg bend and gives the same results as what you are seeing. Mick