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It only takes "trying" to overload a wiring loom to start the wires off burning especially with a 30A fuse in a circuit 10A circuit such as the secondary lighting circuit with 0.35 wiring! You will have a short to positive somewhere on the circuit meaning time to trace it and look for the break...

Common sense should be making the alarm bell in your head ring - Do what you like but I check the timing/dephaser for £35 and that includes new end caps... i'd tell them no thanks and go elsewhere.

£300 on a D4F? Fek me, i'm not charging enough.... I bang these 1.2 16v's out and do timing belt kit and water pump for £180 for CS members

No more than £350 is my honest opinion for a true specialist to supply and correctly replace the timing belt kit on a Clio 172/182 Cup *UNLESS* it needs a dephaser pulley in which case the part alone is going to be an extra £153-170. Also, be sure they are aware of the numerous parts other than...

It needs to go to someone that knows what they're doing really... don't waste anymore cash guessing! There's plenty of reputable specialists on here that can and will be able to fix this for you. Mick

As above, except i'm £280 for a Cup less dephaser. If you're taking it ot a true "Specialist" then they will most likely be the same and not becuase we're making s**t loads on the part becuase in truth we make very little on them. I've fitted parts that have been sourced by the customer before...

Easy job: Front end up, wheels off, front bumper off and head lamps, drop gearbox oil & coolant, remove drive shafts, disconnect coolant pipes and wiring (remember the coolant pipes to the heater matrix), Exhaust manifold off, remove rear engine mount, support engine with crane, remove LH and...

So it was diagnosed with a misfiring on #3 and that wasn't helpfull? To me that tells me exactly where the problem with your cars lays so pull the plug, inspect it and repace if required. Also, carry out a compression test to that cylinder. Then check the injector and finally scope the injector...

What description did it give other than "O/S/R Sensor fucked"... Cohernace issues or target not recognised? You will need to look at the wheel again i'm afraid and you may also need the machine or an oscillescope to hand. Firstly, get the vehicle jacked up on that corner and wheel off...

so... are you selling this or breaking it? I likes a good fixer-upper if the price is right. Mick

I've slung a few of these in to Clio's and Twingo's in the past - Easy enough conversion to carry out on the Clio I using Renault 19/5 mounts and the required wiring work is basic to say the least. I wouldn't say its a terrible engine providing the boost isn't stupidly high and the coolant...

How are the connections that the previous owner made to fit the new spec CPS as this can cause issues. Without diagnostics i'm afraid you're gonna be stuck as it could be a simple case of the ECM isn't 'seeing' rotation due to a faulty CPS signal. It could also be the main control relay not...

It does indeed but it could be a physical battery fault or it could simply be a poor connection.

Its not difficult so just take your time and all will be reet. Don't force anything either and mind your tools as i've seen people catch the battery live on the rear of the starter when doing this job... it makes you jump a bit ;) Mick

Homework for you: Remove the inlet, clean out the resonator box of all the pooled oil and give the throttle body a properly good seeing to with something like Carb or Brake cleaner. Mick

Start simple; Check the battery connections are clean and tight first of all then if you've got a multimeter check the basic battery voltage is good before finally performing a drop test... Note this does not mean take the battery off the vehicle, raise it up from the floor to a great height and...

You can pop out the camshaft setting point end caps and see if there's any free play in the inlet camshaft... these plugs WILL need replacing though so buy replacements BEFORE popping them out and do not run the engine without them. Mick

Sam, I mean't in general people would simply lift off, hit the brakes and close their eyes until the vehicle came to a full stop (with proper bent up bodywork).... and that is the wrong thing to do. This guy can clearly drive more than sheep!

Exactly... most people in that situation would either lift off and/or dab on the brakes which is totally wrong in those situations. Proper brown pant passenger ride that would've been.

ECM is under the bonet and the UCH is near the glove box under the dash.

Then earth condition and continuity isn't the issue for that position. Check the earths for the ECM and UCH... start in the engine bay junction box before going back further inside the vehicle as you may need a wiring "pin-out" for that.

Yeah, if their Dialogys is using the most up-to-date price listing discs then it will only show the "6000" part for the Clio I 172 type code now. I'd wager that there's actually no difference between the two parts physically and that you'll be happy with the eBay purchase/cash saving Mick

The earth you're testing and its source which in this case is the battery Negative pole. Bare in mind you're never going to get zero Ohms as your test meter and leads will add resistence but obviously you want as close to zero as possible... normally 0.03-0.5 Ohms is acceptable. High resistence...

They're not steering wheel location specific i'm afraid and I suspect, based on the "6000" prefix its a simple case of updated part numbers to suit both Renault/Nissan Alliance platforms/systems. This is what I can see: 6000073669: Used on Clio II (PR1247) 7700795688: Used on Clio I (PR1260...

As above, they are black magic and an Autogearbox specialist would be the best place to go as they're so complicated requiring some rather special equipement and experience to correctly diagnose/fix. It could be a hydraulic issue due to a blockage/low oil pressure or it could be a simple...

Clio II 1.2 16v have loads of issues and gremlins... most easy enough to fix though. A flashing MIL denotes a 'Level-2' igniton/fuelling issue that is likely to cause CAT damage. These are unlikely to be wiring related and more likely to be a component at fault... most likely the coilpack...

But have you actaully "Improved" the earths condition? The only way to know how effective an earth is would be to measure its resistence before and after. Also, it may not actually be the earth connection itself but an issue somewhere else such as the cable itself being trapped somewhere or a...

Hard to say without seeing it TBH but it does sound like the exhaust system has a leak somewhere and it really does need looking at to say for sure. Could be a gasket or just an old system section that's "Blown". Mick

You'll need a long, slimline sparkplug removal tool on this engine though to switch out the plugs... Halfords sell them. Buy the best ignition coilpack you can afford as the cheap £25 items from Autofactors are terrible and allow moisture in via the leads as the seals are plain crap out of the...

Not a bad price but the FULL aux. drive belt kit needs changing at the same time so be sure they do this and not just the belt - There's loads of capable specialist on here that can do the job for you properly... find one in your area matey and give em a nudge. I do this job using genuine parts...