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Time for proper diagnostics mate... it needs to go on a CLIP i'm afraid. Could be something really simple like the decoder, could be a wiring issue or it could even be the UCH giving up but, IMHO, it really needs to go to someone that knows what they're doing i'm afraid to save time...

Kieran, I'm afraid it is unlikely to be anything else other than the fuel line 'clip' or its mating connection to the fuel rail that is either broken or worn. Unless you've altered the fuel pressure and the regulator settings of course. Got any pictures? Mick

Any lights on or just the missfire? Just because its had 'new' parts doesn't mean they're not damaged or faulty! Sounds to me like either an ignition coil fault or something not right with the fuel injection. Eitehr way it'll be far easier to take it somewhere to get it looked at and plugged in...

As above, faulty stat or CTS but it could also just be that the gauge needs callibrating as i've seen a few of these now that never reach the half way point. Key in ignition Press and hold the wiper stalk button Now turn the ignition on Watch the 'sweep' of the guage - does it manage to 'sweep'...

The gear change warning light on is normally due to poor gearbox earth OR the earths behind the NS head lamp. Mick

Re: clio won't start, key won't turn to start position, STOP, battery and oil light o Had this a few times now, as BMH above check all fuses. I bet the 120A battery terminal has gone pop or poor continuity. If not that check the solenoid control wire for poor connection/broken connector. Mick

Option 1: CLIP > Injection > Actuations > Cooling Fan Relay > Stage 1/2 > On/Off. Option 2: Disconnect the CTS multiplug in the engine bay, turn the ignition on > put the system in to a "Fault" mode and turn the fan on. If it's not working it could be a wiring fault, a fuse or one of the two...

Does the heater blow hot/warm air? Does the temp gauge creep up when the car is sat and allowed to idle for 10-20 minutes? Mick

As Jonny has already said its going to be UCH related and will need a CLIP, possibly a new UCH to resolve. That means a trip to either a local dealer or a specialist such as myself who has this equipment i'm afraid. Mick

Yep, you'll need all three of them: Crank Pin Camshaft Position Lock Tool Camshaft Sprocket Lock Tool Mick

Much quicker job on the Scenics with the F4R and yes, it will have the VVC dephaser pulley. You will need to change the full timing belt kit, aux belt kit, camshaft end plugs, crankshaft pulley (If over max length tollerance), and camshaft pulley nut/bolt. Also, be sure to check the dephaser...

Blocked CAT is the most liekly cause but a faulty/stuck injector coil can also cause this though its rare for them to constantly pump fuel. Easiest thing to DIY is remove the CAT, run the engine and see if it runs smooth and okay again. Mick

If You've got the Sigma or Cobra setup you can easily remove all this and repair the wires

To cut it to badics means a simple circuit that gives power and earths to:Engine managementFuel pumpLightingBrakes if you have ABSRip it all out, bin it and put in what you need. Its more work than you'd think though and dont forget to put in a good fuse box with a relay plate for things like...

What car is it? I suspect its to do with your UCH output. It will send a live feed to the dipped and then, when you flick to main, will drop it and send a seperate feed to the main which is why you're losing the dip beam. It will be simple enough to create a work-a-round

It won't be that simple as the UniChip essentially "tricks out" certain sensor values to be able to do its job. As above, a pinout is required Mick

It would deffo be diferent and create something to talk about but unless you're gonna do the conversion yourself it would be a huge pricetag for not much... Feel free to ask away though as we do more than just Clio's around here. Mick

Yep, very true but a decent used engine adds roughly (on average) £450 to the bill straight away just to purchase the tall block which is the timing belt, aux belt and dephaser pulley parts price. I always say "Better the devil you know" unless the engine you're repairing has done 100k or more.

Believe it or not that's not the cheapest way to go - You've got to fetch it, fit it and you'd be silly not to do the timing belt, clutch and some other bits to whilst you're there which already sends the bill to the £1200 mark. Then there's also the chance that you're buying a duff engine with...

RenaultNET has the Sachs front damper units - 8200514734 - listed as a pair with Retail at £1,189.01 + VAT (£1,426.81 Inc. VAT). I will send a parts request to Dieppe to ensure its 100% for the pair though but its not normally wrong however I won't hear back until Monday/Tuesday now. Rear Sachs...

Universals are terrible matey and normally work out a couple of quid cheaper than the genuine items... gonna start selling these myself shortly

Are you buying new and genuine Renault items? I suspect not

Yep, that's JB's Scenic Sport and is cracking in a straight line... also running LPG

I've pulled 11litres of oil from a smoking Focus 1.6 6v before due to that - One garage diagnosed it as a head gasket failure :rolleyes: Some people shouldn't be allowed access to under the bonet of a car.

I can do you those NEW at £95 each excluding delivery. Front pair is £950 less delivery Mick

I think it depends on the alternator and crank pulley that you're running... never attempted a Mk1 F4R hybrid before. The pictures you posted above though do show a 6PK pulley setup so unless you've got scrubbing issues i'd run the correct belt for the run to save it jumping again.

Oh and don't forget to check the Dephaser pulley... for the extra £153 thye cost I'd be sticking one on the parts bill also. Mick

Yep, its a DIS "waste spark" ignition system but not injection as this is sequential - The coil drivers fire in banks hence the "waste" of a spark but the injectors 1-4 & 2-3 don't fire at the same time as that wastes fuel and could cause other issues such as DET and bore-wash. It is getting to...

Is that your best chat-up line?

Clio II, Ph2 doesn't have the switches as its part of the door locking latch itself (ghey). Chances are its gonna be the drivers door as its the most commonly used one BUT diagnostics is the only real way to know which is faulty as you've no idea which latch is causing the open circuit. Failing...