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Hi Smithy, welcome to CS.net Sounds to me like a UCH fault... its pretty common on the Clio II i'm afriad and normally caused by water ingress however its not a cheap fix and normally requires a new UCH which is not a DIY job as it needs coding up along with all your keys. Last one I did for a...

Alot more malware to! Winner Blackberry OS7 for me

As above, look for boost leaks but failing that its gonna need a proper looking at. I'm in Nottingham if you're close by and its £35 for a proper diagnostic session with CLIP and you wouldn't believe the difference it makes even if there are no lights on as the live data always tells you what's...

Possibly a wiring issue then rather than the sensor itself. Diagnostics session with a Scope will say for sure though. If you fancy a trip over to Nottingham i'll put a nail in this once and for all for you. Mick

The ABS system is self diagnosing meaning it always runs a system check at startup. Unless a wheel sensor is constantly showing an open circuit a "turn it off and on again" will always reset the light until you start moving and is not scientific proof that it is the brake pedal switch even...

No,the F4R isn't in a constant state of VVC like the K4M is so it shouldn't cause this. What kind of "loud" noise are we talking about?

Yes and that's a joke of a price! (The DCi not the 8v). Ask them, does that include the water pump?

If you were closer, or if you fancy a drive, bring it to me in Nottingham... bit far mind :p

Proberbly the switch that's fallen away and a new one is an easy fix. To answer your question, NO, you can't simply replace the keys PCB as it is coded to the vehicle. Mick

With DF063 as present its a bit more to go on and its going to be either an open circuit within the component itself or a short circuit to earth/+12v within the wiring... the question now is which. Remove the multiplug from the solenoid and clean them up (You may also want to try slightly...

Any codes given begining "DF"? No experience with the RSt i'm afraid

It'll most likely be an earth issue. Check them Mick

There is an obvious point that you can slide a screw driver in to prise the casing apart. It may just need a new battery.

I've not seen it but I assume it works on a similar principal to every other short shifter out there for these cars which will rush the change

It depends exactly how it has failed: Sometimes, the solder breaks so the button itself isn't making a connection and is an easy fix. Most times though the button simply wears out so it needs replacing and re-casing.

I've run the B&M unit in my old ITB'd 19 and it was fine providing you didn't rush the change or force it. It came cheap, gave 100% improvement in the selector 'feel' but I wouldn't fit another one if I had to buy it.

Basic blocks and internals are the same, cam profile is also the same as are the water pumps. The timing belts are the same BUT the idlers ARE different between the Ph1 and Ph2.

New key button required then, possibly a key itself i'm afraid. I've not got any of the buttons in stock atm i'm afraid so can't offer to fix it but its not a difficult job... normally around £20.

Does it lock/unlock okay using the button on the dash? If not it is pretty common and will 100% be water ingress in to the UCH which will have blown the PCB track and no doubt the relay to. The fix is a new UCH as the relays are soldered to the PCB. Mick

Doubt its the filter - More likely to be a MAP, CTS or H02 issue. Live data will say for sure. Mick

You can't just change the starter solenoid as it's part of the starter motor - Pull the starter and bench test it before buying a new one.

If you fancy a trip to Nottingham I can do this for you for £25 Mick

If its knocking and rattling its getting ready i'm afraid. I'm in Nottingham and have a pretty good reputation ;) I've had a few CS cars from the Leeds, Sheffield and Doncertraz areas before so feel free to check out my feedback around this place and others. Or, go to my website -...

Nope, don't do it! They look nice and give the change a much more mechanical feel but the damage they can inflict on the internals is not worth the risk (IMO).

... Because French Car!

I know your setup is "Interesting" so I'm gonna ask why do you want to use studs/nuts? Providing the studs don't foul the clutch assembly and that they're of adequate strength/grade then they should be fine but why can't you just use bolts? Send me your fag packet sketches you dirty Welsh skank ;)

Yep, first port of call is somewhere that can check the system integrity and diag the system pressure (like me for example). Then, if the lack of operation is due to a lack of R134a head off to the cheapest place for a re-gas/leak test. You can then judge if it is actually leaking or if the...

You're doing it wrong then mate cos if its a Mk2 with central locking it will have the facility to auto-lock. I've turned it off on my Scenic as i'm paranoid about the actuators breaking/wearing out (It is a Renault after all) Mick

You won't have a dephaser pulley on a 1.4 16v K4J mate as they're non-VVC. Ticking noises are never good on that side of the engine bay though and i'd get it looked at to at least rule out the two biggest killers of these engines: Timing Belt tensioner/idler failure Water pump failure Also...

"RTM" - "Read The Manual" ;) You can turn this feature on/off as you see fit by pressing and holding the Lock/Unlock button. Upon sucessfull arming/disarming of the auto-lock you will hear a "Beeeep" Mick