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Road noise, tyres, grumbling CV's, binding brakes... hard to say really without hearing

If you're sure the coilpack is not the cause then it needs a diagnostic i'm afraid as guessing is pricey

Gearbox "type" doesn't dictate clutch setup - the flywheels are different so therefore different mounting positions.

Genuine Renault item? Did you do the plug seals to? Come as a kit containing all four for around £11

I charge £580 for timing belt change with a new dephaser pulley. Mick

essentially yes... continuity test the lines till you find each pin (though if you have a break in a trigger wire you won't get the "Beep" as you won't have continuity)

The seats are common issues with airbags on the Clio II but you say it does it when you turn the steering wheel so I'd say it'll be sterring angle sensor/clock-ring related. Diagnostics would be money well spent i'd say in this case. Mick

If it was a coil pack it wouldn't suddenly hit a limiter @ 4k rpm. IMHO this is more likely to be a MAP, TB or even a pedal track issue and i'd advise you get it properly diagnosed before shelling out on a replacement coilpack. Mick

Poor connection in the loom/multi-plug or maybe even a broken or damaged wire. Try running direct lines from the ECM directly to the coilpack and see if it cures the problem.

That's going to be only part of your worries to... SRS ECM will also need replacing as it will have recorded the impact/detonation. Mick

I'd check the wiring to the back of the alternator first of all as they're common for breaking. Mick

As above, even with CLIP, the fact that there's an impact detection code present means it will inhibit the ability of the diagnostic kit to clear any codes from that SRS ECM so the SRS MIL will always be illuminated. Also because of this data being present the ECM is scrap so needs replacing or...

First port of call... check the main control relays in the engine bay fuse box. Mick

Pull the sump off and inspect the pickup... proberbly blocked. Oh, pics?

You owe me a keyboard Fred... just spat tea and toast everywhere

BBA Reman are normally 2-3 days but they quote more to cover themselves. Mick

Yes BUT make sure the lights are turned OFF before scrubbing away with a wire brush or else you're going to pop fuses. Mick

Proberbly not the starter but either the battery, an earth or the starter solenoid... needs looking at to be honest. Try bump starting it or some jump leads first

I see where you're coming from... "once bitten, twice shy" as they say but i've never had any issues with the work Stapleford Hydraulics have done for me (ever) and I've sent a few bits to them including the PAS lines for my LHD R19 with quick releases in them.

Why Matt? A proper swaged connection can handle pressures in excess of 500Bar which is more than the PAS circuit can supply. That's why they're used on JCB's and otehr industrial hydraulic applications... where do you think Renault UK gets them from? If it goes to a hydraulic specialist to be...

Its always easier to blame the ECM rather than work thru the problem to get to the actual cause... this is what dealers do. What makes him *think* this apart from it won't start? The ECM doens't control the starter motor function and as that's also down say's to me its nothing more than a...

BT said the service has now been fully restored, advising customers to "turn their hub or modem off and on again".

NOTE: "Burnt" wiring is not technically a black wire :lol:

If it's a black wire its 100% an earth... proberly the main loom earth that *should* bolt to the front of the block. Be sure of the wire colour though as you don't want ot ground out a battery live accidentally. The Alternator live will be a thick red or brown (normally 8-10AWG).

Grante it's dark but... Wire colour black?

*Normally* the starter has two wires; 1xBattery supply, 1xSolenoid trigger Pics of said wire?

I bet its something you've not connected up like the gearbox earth strap(s) or poor connection at the battery terminals

The Renault/Clio II Imobilliser is UCH based and wouldn't inhibit the starter motor like some other manufacturers do (They drop fuel pump and injector/ignition triggers) If all you've done is swap lump for lump and have used everything that was on the car and setup for it then no, there...

Earth strap missing/broken... check battery connections are nice and tight.

Its an easy enough job to DIY as long as you don't need the car to get you to PirTek and back. If you do you're gonna be best off letting someone else do it for you. I'd gladly do it for you if you fancied dropping it off but you'd have to leave it with me for a morning and we're already...