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It can go either way depending on what exactly has gone wrong. I've just done a servo on a 2001 Scenic which was braking fine but was hissing. That turned out to be the main seal had partially flipped allowing air in when the pedal was pressed. If its been in to a "Garage" then anything is...

I've used FAG units before without any issues... last just fine unless you're an idiot who attempts to bash em in with a lump of wood and a hammer. I'll do em for you Gouldy, £90 a side supplied and fitted and i'll give you 12months on them to. Mick

Failed brake servo, servo vac. feed or master cylinder.... Servo or vac hose most likely causes. Enjoy swapping it in situ cos they can be "F-U-N" (meaning Fookin Unbelievable Nightmare)

Right, the relays you speak of are the UCH's multi-timer function control relays... unfortunatly I don't believe any of them have anything to do with the starting of the vehicle as they're for things like front fog lamps, wipers, one-touch windows, etc. Most likely going to be a fault...

Too short for fuel rail crash guard. Looks more like an upper timing belt cover stud... one of the two with 16mm nuts on them or somehting off the front of the block.

Firstly, are you sure the oil pressure switch is a good working and correct unit for that engine? Ideally the car needs its oil pressure mechanically measuring as it could be a blocked pickup/faulty oil pump which would be bad... could also be a duff switch or even wrong oil grade. "Plan for...

Check fluid level is spot on but I suspect the pump is about to "do one"

i believe so yes

"Renault UK" or the "Franchised" dealer is telling you this?

IF it was a brand new UCH that has been fitted and correctly setup on the vehicle by a trained technician using a CLIP then the "aftersales" programming date will be set and will show fairly recent... There's one bit of proof. As above, I seriously doubt a new UCH will fix this and that part...

You're closing the circuit somewhere hence the horn is going off. If you've attempted some "custom" wiring check this first. Mick

I know a decent one in Nottingham with CLIP ;)

Re: Immobiliser problems. Fek me Freddy! That's outrageous and surely there's a CLIP equipped specialist down that way that could've done this for less? Unfortunately, problems like this do involve a fair bit of digging but Renault have access to all the relevant help sheets and processes...

Drop the box oil, remove the 5th/Revese end plate and inspect for damage... I'm betting there's visible damge or the end cap nut is loose. Mick

Proper fudged that! @Fred... I've got Liams 197 in at the minute (The guy who's 172 you set fire to - ((Its not as bad as it sounds people)) and he said my workshop is tidier than yours :P (WINNER :lol: ) Mick

As above, pull the back seat and check the pump is recieving power. It could be the pump itself is failing or it could be a simple lack of power due to the wiring or the fuel pump relay as suggested earlier. It's also worth noting that the main power feeds in the Clio II's engine bay fuse box...

Mate, we all make mistakes just learn from them! I've bent valves before thru not thinking and I've even had to re-code a UCH after accidentally tapping "Erase Config" on the tablet screen! Times like this you just have to walk away for a few minutes then come back and get stuck in as everything...

Eww, a naughty diesel! Did you resistence check each glow plug and confirm the heater relay is functioning correctly?Check the leak-off pipes and get it back on diags and live data to see what the fuel pressure is. Mick

Changing it isn't the problem - that comes IF it needs setting up which can only be done on a CLIP.TBH I've never actually replaced one so don't know if new units require setting up and pairing to the car or not. If its the same as the Megane II you just fit it and plug it in but take care not...

Cheers John, I'm still new around here so its hard to get people to trust me but I am very capable and trustworthy (honest lol). I try to treat people as I'd like to be treated which has served me well so far.My website is undergoing a lot of change and development at the minute as I do all that...

I loved MW/MW2 but got bored. Picked up BF2 in Asda after a friend recommended it to me and I've been a convert ever since.I prefer the emphasis placed on team work in BF not to mention the huge stunning vistas you fight in where as MW is just one man rushing around small maps. Snipers aren't...

I'm in Nottingham ;)

The trouble is any monkey with a spanner set and some ambition can setup a business and call themself a "Specialist". Some have cracked AutoData processes where as others have eBayed versions of Dialogys... You don't question it or their ability but they don't have any real experience or...

They're not strictly speaking "legal" but, with that said, my Scenic has gone thru the MOT with 6k units in without fuss for the past 2yrs and never once have I been stopped for dazzling people (Headlamp rig shows a good solidly focused beam pattern at the correct level without projector...

Changing "Oil and Filter" alone is not a service... Jesus, £41.31, people are really starting to get tight.

I've raided BTM's spares pile a few times because of this rather than pay £135 for a new one but it depends on what pulley has let go. If its the crank pulley bolt, the most common, then they're fine and it just bends valves but if its the exhaust camshaft pulley itself that slips due to...

I would also be thoroughly inspecting the camshaft pulleys and ends of the camshafts to. When these 'spin' the fixings have a habbit of digging in to the cam pulley and it kills the mating face so re-using it is an instant weak spot and it will most likely fail again.

Prob not a snapped belt but a slipped pulley due to incorrect sequencing/torque on fixings or the fixings were not replaced (as recommended) and so weren't holding everything correctly. So what's it gonna cost? Between £850-1100 for a specialist to do it... honestly, why would you consider...

There shouldn't be any play at all mate... what did you use to 'work' the camshaft with? We normally use the setting bar itself as it fits perfectly and you can properly give it maximum chicken without the risk of damaging the locating boss.

You will need to delve a little deeper then Cristi and put a scope on the CPS Vs Injector and Coil primary triggers. Your problem could even be linked to a faulty CTS which is either enriching or leaning the cranking AFR hence getting a lazy start condition. Until you start playing its hard if...