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That is "A" problem yes but it is unlikely to be "The" problem matey. What youv'e got there is a cable tie acting/failing at being a CV boot clip... this needs replacing but before you do that the CV joint needs cleaning out and repacking with grease. Looking at that wheel though the...

That won't work - Obviously it will only apply to vehicles with SRS units fitted but the garages working to the new rules know that systems such as SRS, ABS and other MIL's are supposed to come on then go off (and stay off). If they don't come on the system has been tampered with and so your car...

That's because they're all running on clutch assemblies that have done mega mileage and are worn. A new OE kit will see you right for a fair few years to come. The LUK ones are okay but for the price you'd be far better off with a Valeo kit as suggested above.

I really don't miss being young when I read things like this... complete joke!

From the 1st of Jan, 2012 this will also be an MOT failure what with the new rule updates coming on that date pertaining to MIL's and otehr warning lights.

Are you 100% sure everything is done up tight and aligned so the belt is running correctly.

Big yellow relay in the under bonnet fuse box.

Possibly or it could even be the fan motor itself but if you're having problems you really should start your own thread ;)

CTS or a faulty H02 could indeed cause this... needs Live data access to say for sure.

I must be sitting on a fortune as i've got a couple of hundred in various display cabinets; Road, Classics, BTCC/WTCC, Clio/Megane Cup, Rally. I thought they were all mass produced but apparently not. [runs to see what number out of 43 they all are]

I've just looked at this again and giggled - What a winner and he clearly believes it to be true.

Once the top end has been rebuilt, belt runs replaced and timing setup you won't need to "run in" the engine no... I'm not saying nail it but use it as you would normally. Mick

Possible but in my experience, unlikely unless there are obvious signs of damage or you've done some recent work that has involved the swapping of engine looms (Renault likes to keep people on their toes by "modifying" loom specs and pin-outs from time to time). Pics? Are you sure you bridged...

I don't think its the Imob at fault and more like the main control relay. Can you hear the fuel pump prime for 3secs when you turn the key?

Face + Palm

I've only ever had one problem like this that couldn't be fixed with one of these and the application of my 13stn... it was a Volvo T5r and a Thursday. Get it on an impact gun and it'll buzz it off for fun.

IIRC its nothing more than a 10mm M6x1.5 Hex - they won't be able to sell you a single item as they come to them in packs of 30. You'd be far better off going to either a local fixings place or even a DIY store such as B&Q, Focus, Etc and buying what you need from the hardware sections.

Ah that stupid 120A thing... cut it off and slide the flat bit under the terminal and bolt hte bugger down - Job D U N

Hahaha - "Shut up, shut up" - I never understood why the floor fell out either shortly after This kind of thing is to be taken with a pinch of salt as it uses the cars own systems for measuring distance Vs speed/load to roughly work it out. They are pretty good if you do it on a long flat...

Sorry but I need to ask - What exactly is the point other than to make the rear of the car un-useable and to have somewhere to mount harness to?

Check the reluctor rings on the front shaft that has just been changed. Make sure the number of teeth is the same as the item that was removed.

The Crank Position Sensor has nothing to do with the starter operation. It'll be electrical for sure so either the solenoid live wire at fault... the spade connector can cause issues if its covered in corrosion or the wire is hanging off. The other possible cause is the earth strap between the...

As a car though that shape Fiesta isn't a very good one... My sisters has been in and out for so much warranty work; Window screens not bonded/sealed correctly, faulty window regulators, siezing locks, seats not folding and rear light cluster "issues". The new model however is a different case...

Technically its a French car still... well, the engine at least is French ;) My sister has one of these in standard guise and they do look nice but not the greatest handler in standard form.

Never trust a car sales person when it comes to important technical matters on your vehicle. If its not documented and you have doubts get it changed. Mick

saves your knuckles though aye Fred ;)

Firstly, and if you've not already done so, it wouldn't hurt to press the inertia switch (Red rubber thing on the passenger turret) just incase it has accidentally been tripped. It'll make an audible "Click" if you press it and it has tripped. This is a safety device that cuts the earth lines to...

In your case then dwizzle its either a sticking or faulty IACV but you need to clean out the plastic housing that it sits in to before you change the sensor itself. nnf - yours could be the same issue but it could also be something as simple as it needs a new throttle cable to Mick

I would say firstly you need to get a diagnostic done on the UCH to see what it's not seeing so that's going to mean taking it to a specialist not a jack of all trades garage. What with the car not even attempting to start could be a control relay issue or a fault within the UCH itself. It could...

That's why you ideally need to have them setup on a Dyno rather than use numbers that someone else with a different engine build claims to be the best as they may not suit your needs or driving style. I'm not a tuner and I can't tell you how to dial them in for maximum chicken but I was always...