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I got 4 Pzero's fitted for £380 a few months back, and that was including actually paying for the fitting, as I don't have a mate to do me it as a favour - that's 205/45/16 too, not the cheaper 195. You could go 195 if you were looking to save a bit of cash, but again personally I just paid for...

The Toyo's won't last as long, so it's false economy. I'd pay for the top-notch now, you'll probably get it back long run. Running Pirelli Pzero's myself.

So the front seats from a 180 are pretty much cheap Recaro's?

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?695182-Crushed-jacking-point-prevention&highlight=jacking+points ​?

It's local to me apparently, can't say I've ever seen it though.

Merino Wool Wash Mitt from CarPro. EDIT: http://www.carpro.uk.com/merino-wool-wash-mitt/

Would use CarPro with the discount code in gally's thread which is stickied to get mitt and towels etc, they sell a really nice merino wash mitt and really good quality drying towels and applicator microfibres, and they sell Iron X too.

Where are you buying from? Nearly everywhere I looked back when I replaced my tyres, Conti's were more expensive than Pzero's.

Personally, I'd have it perfectly punctuated, but not sure how important other people consider that.

So the hub can go towards the front or back of the car, but not towards the side (towards yourself, pretty much) Thanks for the advice all round.

Using this guide for the fronts as it seems the easiest to follow: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?319663-Guide-How-to-change-replace-front-worn-suspension-struts-springs-(with-pics)&highlight=suspension John, when you say 21mm socket on the shock nuts - is 21mm specific to the...

Sounds like a fuse?

Thank you good sir.

Does the 150 set have anything extra I'll require, or just 'cause I'm spending the money already and might as well get a bit more that might come in handy in future?

While an inconvenience, Chapster's solution is plenty good enough, they're dirt cheap now too IIRC.

Would ratchet stands allow me to support the exhaust while changing the hangers/mounts? It's another job that needs doing...

So... Socket set: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_862443_langId_-1_categoryId_255215 Axle stands...

All the basic pro stuff from Halfords do the job, or will I find better value/quality elsewhere? Being able to take individual tools back under warranty to my local does sound convenient.

You'll have to open it up, I don't think you can really test it as such. I'm assuming given it's a laptop the network card will be part of the motherboard, but I could be wrong (just assuming space saving). If possible, I'd connect another card, if you can, or perhaps getting hold of an external...

Personally wouldn't go 197 unless getting an R27, but then I guess some would say they wouldn't go 1*2 unless getting a Trophy. In your case, why not get a trophy? Should be able to get one for your extended budget, and a bit more special than a 1*2.

I'd go with this too. A few years back we had a power surge after a thunderstorm, and it fried the network adaptor that was in the PC which was connected to the motherboard, so ended up buying a separate network card, and worked fine after.

I want to change all four shocks on my 182, and rather than paying someone else, I figured I could probably do it myself; there are plenty of guides on here and it seems relatively easy. At the moment I have no tools whatsoever, so looking for some advice on kits etc that will allow me to carry...

I can confirm it won't - but after a bit of research, consensus seems to suggest a pre-wash like Citrus Power or RDS is more effective than snowfoam anyway; I used RDS to clean my car the other day and was very happy with the results - saves paying out for a decent lance.

I wish! I'd say closer to £900 if we're talking full refresh; I assume you mean dampers and springs? OP, has your 172 got poverty spec interior? If so, that'd be the first thing I'd change.

Yeah, that's what the guy before me did; I can't see exactly where the contact is being made, causing the squeak.

Done, thanks. Any ideas about the squeak? I might just replace the pillar, the top popper bit won't stay attached anyway.

This plastic door trim pillar, does it simply pull off with a bit of force? It squeaks when I drive, the previous owner appears to have tried wedging a few bits of plastic in there to stop it, but it's not effective, and the noise is starting to annoy me, any ideas people? Thanks.

Even if you're not building individual NCB, that price to insure your 1.2 is madness, if you come to drive a private car again in future, being older will benefit you hugely, and you won't have to start off paying such a ridiculous price when you're over 21.

I got my LY for £3200 and it's been perfect in my ownership, bought it on 78k, so that one in the for sale section is just a tad overpriced.

Always presumed that to anyone who doesn't know much about the RS range, it looks like a chavvy after-market mod; know where you're coming from. ​I'd definitely be looking at that Ph1 Steve posted, looks tidy.