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When you say you over spent by 7 times mate, does that include the initial build or do you mean the season budget?

Thought id missed something :)

The ties I've got are very beastie. They won't move ;)

Apart from the lack of rusting effects I fail to see the benefit. Boiling point is practically the same as standard coolant. What am I missing?

It won't boil at that temp, so would be fine. Depends on how much ethylene glycol is in it

Lol. Trying this at the mo ;) did you burn out the old rubber? They are a bugger to remove

I'm not sure how chassis compare in uprated form though. I would imagine that the x85 is always going to handle better when both are modified. Depends on driving style also IMO. If you feel comfortable then you will always drive faster.

X65 is cheaper to get hold of which will allow budget so be used elsewhere. X85 is a more stable chassis in standard form. Depends if you are aesthetically driven ;)

Thought you meant remove the coils not the plugs. OK no worries. I can give that a go too :D

Would disconnectiong the coil pack suffice?

That will be a struggle, as it won't go under the seat and most of the wiring isn't available in the engine bay. I could try it though. CCA on it is 170, so I assume that would be plenty?

when you wire into the designated ports with a supply like oil pressure/temp etc, how does the ECU know what it's reading? I presume it just recieves a certain voltage? But that can come from various sensors. Which part of the 'system' differentiates the information? From looking over the EC1...

Sorry Dan, didn't see your post. I've got the odyssey pc680, so same size as the varley 25.

I tried heating it and testing it, and all seemed normal. If its torque related, I assume that it's the motor only?

It connects behind the passenger headlight.

No mate, would be through the laptop or gauges at the mo unfortunately. Needs the laptop for NoS (joking ;))

I strapped it to a battery off the car. And no difference is spinning etc. if it was the torque output, wouldn't I still get a click as the solenoid engages? Might be a stupid question, but could the fact it's high comp make any difference by way of strain in the starter?

This is what i've got; Pin Name Description Notes 1 VBATT Battery Voltage Direct Direct Battery Power 6-15V 2 VKEY Ignition Key Input Switched Ignition Feed 3 GROUND Power Ground 4 INJ1 Injector 1 5A Protected Output 5 INJ2 Injector 2 5A Protected Output...

When you put it like that, if there is only £5 between them, it's kind of a no brainer ;) I assume he's on about PE2's? Although I thought they were no longer available.

That was an option, but there car is in bits so couldn't try that yet. It clicked when given 12V though.

Michelin here too. You get better wear out of them.

Tested the wire to the relay tonight, and the wire from the relay to the white plug, both show continuity. So i'm either going to put the starter back in and see if the fault has miraculously disappeared, or search back from the white plug to the UCH and barrel. Bloody wiring!

Not easier just to get it wrapped Ian?

Are you sure it's 29 mate? I'm looking at the pin diagram on SX and it says 29 is AUX. 31 is NTC. Unless you have different wiring information?

Sweet!!!

Sorry mate. These things aren't black an white unfortunately :(

Ah so you didn't do the sump plug method. Fare enough. It would be cool to run it into the ecu ideally, but gauges are more useful. I can hide them somewhere I suppose :) Where did you take the power from?

Guide needed for this ;)

Oh. Maybe the case as they guy had never used aftermarket cams on Clio's before. Needless to say it made a mess of my engine eitherway.

Fair enough mate.