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Remote is always blue

Lol, pipercross make ktr panel filtes

probably sliders. Remove, clean and grease. Make sure the tap on the back of the caliper adjacent to the piston is located in a slot

sounds a bit like the alternator is rattling in the vid. I don't like video diagnostics though, there's no substitute for getting up close and personal.

I keep those, and panel filters for ph2's, 197s and meganes in stock, along with KTR induction kits

looks unlike anything I've seen before

Remove the spring from the bias valve and work the arm back and forth. May need lubrication

Beaniemoos white F4R + high comp & ITB Mk1. Literally perfect

wheel bearings. Non genuine are crap. It's almost cheaper to buy rear disks with pre pressed bearings than it is to get bearings separate

use genuine only All mk1's and mk2's that use disks are the same apart from ABS rings which the cup doesn't need to worry about, only options is disk or drum

hubs are a different width too, think sport hubs are 2mm wider where they bolt to the shock so they won't fit between the flanges

revving it to 11 IIRC

s**t dangerous idea. REALLY s**t

200 a month easily. I've done 80 quid since Sunday

Should always bleed the system

Certainly worked on the one I saw. I'd sell them

rather do it in a 205 GTI. I have done actually, LOL'd a lot

seen the same thing done once before but couldn't find the idler. Had some slight concern over the length of the belt run at the front too. it's the kind of run that would normally have an idler

Actually he's partially correct, but he's refering to the williams/valver Renault discontinued the correct genuine filter for the williams, and made the filters one size fits all. The only filter with the correct non return valve in it for a williams is made by Champion. Doesn't effect the F4R...

I won't, but I'll be eagerly awaiting 197 prices crashing through the floor like a stone, then I'll get one of those

Lots different, you'll need the right one for your car

that should say WOULDN'T

more engine specific with regard to lengths and injector position so there's a small performance advantage, they are cheaper overall, and in the case of the ones I posted, easier to fit. The generic Jenvey SF kit is fine, always works, but there's a LOT of small bolts and screws, nuts and...

Jackson, just call me. Your fault is without question the speed sensor. Told Deacon it needed changing. It's only £25

I wouldn't use 428s for a start. Rubbish There's a thread in my traders section about cams packages, but you'll have to pay your membership to see that

could be why, or could just be your tensioner not fully doing it's job. I don't run arch liners and i've had no issues

yes, mostly covers it. It clips to the stay between the subframe and chassis leg as per this pic:

did you change the auxilliary belt and tensioner kit?

on the plus side they're pretty easy to change

no, completely different