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have you got the spanners for them? you just wind the platform that the spring sits on, up. Highly recommend jetwashing, then spray WD40 on the threads before you try to adjust anything. Get dirt in the threads and it's seize solid

Just checked, it's now £19.80 for genuine

It sounds like you have an oil supply issue. What oil filter is fitted? some non genuine filters don't have a non return valve, so take a few seconds to fill up, this means it takes a few seconds for oil pressure to build. What you describe is not dephaser failure

won't stop it tapping, but use NGK plugs, please! Bosch are awful

I thought you were a year younger than me, not 2 months older!!

they're more than that for genuine (£24 i think), which I would recommend

put it in gear and push it, see if the belts turn

stat. They should be changed every 2-3 years really. Most have never been touched

no, you need a working thermostat to help get up to temperature. A faulty one is open al the time, so removing it would be no different, or even worse

more likely water pump, PAS pump, alternator or something similar. It does actually take quite a lot for a dephaser to die, so unless it's getting starved of oil I very much doubt it's your issue after so few miles

tight enough not to come loose. I believe it's the exact same sensor as the K4M, most renault stuff is all the same.

primary item on a service check list. Mos people will notice it when their wheel gets covered in grease

No map mentioned to get benefit from the mods. Not really surprised. A map would do a lot to that I expect

I would advise adding a brace from the downpipe to the block

Hands up who read that as "mothers breast" :clap:

for reference, a pair of genuine rears with bearings inclulded cost less than a pair of genuine bearings on their own.

he'll have been looking at the cam through the oil filler

it could have had a pulley slip. Same effect as the cambelt going, but without the belt actually snapping. Look for any damage to the aux belt, could be a strip off it that's tangled in the crank pulley Cranking = turn the key and try to start it.

these are 3.5 inch. I'd say the ones in the above picture are too

did it make any big noise?? does it turn over and try to start? Does it sound faster than normal when cranking?

Genuine with bearings pre-pressed ONLY for rears. Non genuine bearings are made of chocolate. Motrio pads are fine, rears do very little

piper will do new cams from blanks I think (need to check latest catalog), but they're about £200 more than the regrinds

too long, and no built in washer/flange

182 doesn't have the bracket for the dogbone to bolt to. don't think it' that I think it's the long alternator bolt

That link goes to your facebook profile, not a picture put it on photobucket

new balljoint should come with bolts, so hit the old one as hard as you can

What a s**t picture host!!! should definitely be capable of going lower than that, although it looks about perfect really

Water pump isn't run on the cambelt, and doesn't need the belt to be touched

I'm welling up with all the love in here :o

LOL!!! exactly why I never got mine fitted to my mk1. WOuld have had to change to a 172 starter as the solenoid is in a different orientation, and that involved spending money