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It's not the seals, they dont seem to leak, they just develop a lot of play in the shaft. As far as i know it's an issue they're aware of and trying to solve.
got a car with a knocking set in the workshop right now. removed and returned numerous sets, identified knocks that multiple experts couldn't find and blamed on top mounts. Even removed some that had already been reconditioned once and one of the fronts had play in it again.
Bedford. Have a look in our traders section, got some fitted prices in sticky posts :) http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?537044-Pi-Lowering-Spring-kits
Dan
incorrect, doesn't have to be that way
not my first choice of springs, but they're ok. Better than Apex for example which are aweful. I like PI springs for a road car, 25mm drop, ride well and work with standard shocks. Eibach are good but they dont really make enough difference over standard...
nah I dont think so, they sell both. They actually had about a dozen manufacturers send them samples to try, all quite similar as there's not many things you can make different
this is my favourite post http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?582824-519-Automotive-New-Coilovers-%A3699.99-and-%A3799.99&p=7787018&viewfull=1#post7787018
tricky one. There's a lot of crap out there, and a lot of the time good quality parts are badly setup. If you can't afford a good quality set of coilovers, then standard shocks (new) with good springs is a better route to take. If you want to go as low as you can, then there's lots of budget...
if it's down on power, the timing has definitely been set wrong. There is a sticky thread at the top of this section about why you should always use someone experienced with these engines. Have a good read. If your man thinks it could be a "tooth" out then he hasn't understood how the timing on...
I would get it on a fault code reader as this should get to the bottom of it.
The plugs would be a good place to start as these struggle to do more than 30-40k before needing replacing (service schedule recomends every 72k) also lambda could be the cause but a fault reader would pick this up.
I would always run the ones that cover the gear stick linkage and the handbrake cables
The ones above the backbox aren't protecting much, just trying to keep the boot cool so there's no issue with removing them IMO
if they dont deal with policies for modified cars , then their price structure wont be setup to cater for what you want. Specialist modified insurers have schemes that they design for mods, so dont be too shocked
jack up the car so wheels are off the ground, fill the reservoir, then turn lock to lock with the engine running, and top up the fluid as needed and keep goin until you find a leak, or the level stays up.
I'd think they'd work OK. 438's are effectively a toned down 421 so you wont get the same results you would, but i'd expect them to give a nice torque curve