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Isnt the clip on the 'dry' shaft side the bit that hits the engine block?

See, I had to remove my cat to fit mine, was a right hassle. Worth it though. I put a yanoo insert and a ph1 gearknob in mine.

Ah I see. Is it worth having something like that? Relocated mine a while ago and when its standing for a few weeks I tend to just disconnect the negative.

What is the 'cartek' thing on the battery?

Is it still around @Sir_Dave ?

Great work on the dash and switches. Really really good, now your derby way you can do mine! Haha

Sad to hear mate :( but the flying thing sounds amazing! Will you still tinker with boxes and racks for fellow CSers?

Also interested. Do Renault still do exchange on shafts?

Yeah, easier than I thought as well. Cup alternator is even easier! Have you gone for EPAS yet? I cant remember

Im worried about this. Ive measured 94db at 4k but apparantly thats not 75% and should be around 5.25k? It hits the limiter at 6000 when in neutral

I would drop the subframe at the rear and loosen front bolts, undo the pinch bolt to column from drivers side arch first, then when its down get to the hoses with a stubby spanner.

@GrahamS absolutely awesome progress! The car looks fantastic and purposeful as anything! Congrats on graduating also - good feeling isnt it? I have my first track day on the 1st, im concerned my ktec recessed system will be to loud now! It has no centre silencer but has the standard cat - was...

@Dr Jekyll are the brake ducts a tight fit? Found some 95mm ones cheaper but worried they wont fit without copious amounts of adhesive!

Uh hate grinder/drill based injuries or near misses - I always fully suit up now after one to many close calls! Remember following this in Fast Car mag I think? Didnt it have a yellow cage?

Get a proper silicone cap for the blanks instead of a bolt, looks much neater. I couldnt get rid of the light until I soldered the resistor in and cut the plug off.

If I had a pound for everytime Ive heard that :p Bargain mate.

I think theres one in the traders section.

Ignore that - thought it was for a cup setup.

I think you are missing the adjustment bolts from that list.

Aerial base is relatively easy to change but needs headlining dropping slightly. It connects behind drivers c pillar.

There is a good guide on the PMS website for fitting the ac delete, which shows how to remove the pipework and condenser. http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/Fitting%20guides/172%20aircon%20delete%20kit%20instructions%20with%20standard%20pulleys.pdf

5L of Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax - love this stuff as a weekly wash. Can do it in 30-45 mins and dont have to muck about getting jetwash and hose out. 40 microfibres - mine are getting on abit. AF Finale - my go to QD, any good alternatives?

You selling the old one?

All sport racks are the same, 2.75 turns. Id go for epas, it makes it a lot easier to swap the racks in future.

Yes, air con sensor. Plugs in near the rad somewhere

Ok, thanks - I think its probably the carbon canister anyway. Im going to take the dash top off tonight and check the connections otherwise im stumped!

Hi all, Bit of background - ph2 172, steering wheel airbag has been deactivated in CLIP previously. Car has had a new battery and full dashboard out for EPAS conversion. Also removed the engine wiring loom and cut back and removed aircon and pas wires to the fuseboard/ecu. All back together...

Have you swapped the motor?

That ecu bracket mounts differently. Theres a clip on the underside (you csn see it in the picture), that slots into the dash frame near the drivers door, and where you have bolts it there is a corresponding hole on the dash framework to secure it.

I was going to say, that wiring is surely a lot beefier than standard and a shorter run. Is the motor available seperately or easy to get from a breaker?