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If you only use it twice a month then I'd say bodies and cams, but it will likely cost more to do than the LB unless you find second hand parts, think all you need to make a LB work long-term would be an upgraded clutch

Cut the bumper, it's a sports car not a diesel 😂

Looks like it's been parked up, then someones stripped bits off it

Rough idea, what do you think it would be worth?

Remember to get correct grade of nuts and washers to match the bolt

Shame it's came to this, misfire could be something daft like plug gap..still cheap motoring when you can get an engine for £300 and their easy enough to work on if you have the time, just get live/recorded data and you'll soon find the issue

Yeah maybe bud, ive just always found it to fail on awkward areas, bolt holes etc....Once it chips it's just a downward spiral in that local area, pain in the ass and annoying at the same time

Two coats of blue steel, a coat of zinc primer then any paint you want, couple of good coats at a decent temperature would be fine for what it is

It should be dry in there, never seen mine wet anyway

Imo i wouldnt powdercoat the rear parts, a good quality paint job is much better at getting battered with stones etc and easy to do once blasted, coating looks good for a year max then just needs repaired all the time to keep it looking good....most disagree but been there done it,

Try 5amp fuse in engine bay fusebox first, it's for the pump

You may need to fit an additional dog bone type mount on the forward side if running big power, is it cracked or been torn apart on the weld haz? It may just need more weld with a bigger cap or the steel is to thin, hard to say without seeing one tbh....you could fit a custom made job, or brace...

Something like dinitrol or schultz do various coatings, the bilt hamber stuff mentioned is good but not good enough for wheel arches or areas that are heavily impacted by in the wet, lucky if it holds up for a year from what I've seen

SC but it if comes down to cost, turbo is a good bit cheaper and if kept around 230 it should be reliable enough

Did you remove the old stuff or just stick on top, I need to do mine, thinking mid grey

Blocked strainer maybe, check to see if sump was layered with sealant when fitted last time, people/s**t mechanics love doing this, my mates "rebuilt" cvh engine done by what he thought was a legend failed because of this in less than 100miles 😂 What's the plan, new engine and map tweak?

Leave standard and use come rain, sun or snow, I'd love a trophy!

Beleive they may be fitted to some push bikes m9x1, I need 2 also

Will be a decent car once finished, ready for years of abuse before next rebuild 😁

All the best, should pass no issues

Just be sure to use the correct grade nuts and washers also, stick to a good known supplier also

Screaming for a 50shot of gas 😂

Got a graph of the power run, 300's loads ha

If it's a standard car and basic insurance just go anywhere, their all the same....robbing cnuts

Other one I tried was autobrite magifoam I think it was, goes on quick thick and has a long dwell time (20mins) but it was also very good at removing heavy grime, just need to stick to the dwell time as it needs it, top quality product though

It's all I use in the winter months on my cars, quick snowfoam and a rinse and that's it, it's good for under arches etc also, really good stuff if you give it a decent dwell time

Best thing to do is see if there is anyone local to you on the forum who could maybe pop round in give you a hand, even better they may have spare parts to aid fault finding and save you some cash

No spark means it's likely a crank sensor issue or maybe the coil

Like I said best to find the drain, power must be getting sucked from the battery through one of the fuses, it takes time but should eventually find it, get battery checked also as it may have a weak cell which will hold enough power to start the car in the short term but not enough power over...

It's simple enough, R, 1, 3 and 5th are back, obviously others are forward, left and right positions are the same as in the car, use 5th to set the gear linkage is best/always worked for me