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Prob gearbox oil given the area. The newer nfx doesnt smell of anything compared to the old nfj. Soon see from above.

Hosepipe test on it. From memory the heater box can leak around the foam gasket if the scuttle is blocked.

Dash out. As above dehumidifier will get it.

Id say every car, if laboured/lugged at low rpm in a high gear will make unwanted noises. Classic example is oap driving whatever manual car and crawling along in 3rd gear at idle with the engine and drivetrain knocking its bollox off.

5th gear is too low for 35mph. That must be near idle rpm surely and throttle will labour the engine having it rock all over possivly exaggerating the issue. 40 onwards for 5th.

Updates. Renewed rear wheel bearings last weekend. Straightforward job, half hour a side with the press. Ive went oldskool on the torque settings and the hub nuts are now ft, as there is still noteable play at stock 220nm. See if they survive more than one trackday eh. Anyway it all drives...

Clean the throttle and reset the ecu adaptives with clip. Makes a fair difference, mine went from lazy throttle to sharp after doing that.

You will need to invert the readings in the software and recalibrate the tps.

Id imagine if +5v and ground are arse first, it will give inverted readings.

Verify wiring is correct, id imagine its pretty simple +5v, signal and sensor ground. If correct, i imagine you should be able to reset the tps in the software to 0%. Failing that is it possible to invert the sensor reading on the settings.

Sometimes its just better off buying one and driving now instead of suffering months of pain sorting out rust. Anything mechanical is faily painless to sort.

Updates. Bought a centre console with cloth armrest a while back to replace the povo r26 centre console. Unfortunately it was not complete, and was missing the gearstick surround, obd cover etc. I thought the non armrest centre console parts would fit but totally different so put it to one...

C**t to get it back in. I ended up sending it back in with deadblow hammer :LOL:

Cam covers are matched to cylinder head due to cam journals, so cant just swap. Its cambelt, cam pulleys off and anaerobic flange sealant for the gasket, fairly big job. Id paint that in high temp silver, or remove and aqua blast.

That extra is cool. I almost done mine in same colours years ago. Need to get mine back on the road. Its done nowt this year.

This. If the car holds no sentimental value, move it on for a good useable one and let somebody else endure months of pain sorting the rust out.

The scanner you are using is not suitable. Use something that will scan it properly, can clio, renolink etc.

Steering wheel fully to the left. Seatbelt through a spoke if your doing it solo. Screwdriver to pop ears in and pull with angled pick.

Updates. Changed the steering rack bush yesterday, easy yet fiddly to do. Its not my first go as done the one on the blue 225 several years ago. All come apart easily. Tierod tool to remove inner. Inner tie rod was still in great nick with no play, which is a good thing as its only done...

Just had a quick look on my kangoo which is similar, and there is options in the upc for key/keyless. Look in that area it might have what you need.

Use google lense to translate. Much easier now than using it years ago, trying to translate french shorthand. Was painful.

Looks about right. I just scan for ecu i need usually using the above menu, double click on the ecu in the list and straight in. Full scan takes too long. Try ddt4all. I had issues doing meg3 airbag and ended up using ddt4all.

Nothing in the immobiliser section? Anything in engine ecu or upc? Id imagine its somewhere to suit key card setup.

Updates Basically done nothing to this since Anglesey apart from clean and drive, it all works so there was no real need to do much. Renewed insurance for the year with Greenlight. Still cleans up decent and using the di vessel for rinse really makes the yellow pop. With a Spa Francorchamps...

Flagging loads of codes on start will be due to low voltage. Check all your power and earths are good/tight. Get a test meter on the alternator when running to check voltage.

Cheap enough that. Same colouras febi or different?

Ive not used ddt4all for ages being honest as i use renolink. From memory you will need to download the ddt2000 database for it, pretty simple install apart from that. Keep us updated on how it goes

I think it will be possible to activate it as you need to press brake or clutch on the keycard models. Use Renolink or ddt4all, as clip wont usually allow you to alter stuff like that. Ive just reactivated the same option on our meg mk3 250 with Renolink. Was simply an option on uch for press...

The bumpstops are progressive on these, basically secondary damping, you are on them quite often when driving quick. I destroyed a bumpstop on a trackday riding the kerbs, and went from no catching to quite a lot. They fail with age too, splitting down the middle.

Check your bumpstops on the front are still intact and not fallen to pieces.